30wgray1Dremington-solar-attic-fan-30watto you have a hot attic? Do you have a hot garage? Do you want to discuss sizing options? Do you have ridge vents? All comments welcome!

126 thoughts on “Solar Attic Fan Discussion HERE

  1. mark says:

    will the 30 W Remington solar fan the roofer put on my house in Washington state come on in the winter I know it comes on at eighty degrees but what will make it work when its cold in the attic

  2. Notsuredomus says:

    I am trying to repurpose an old attic fan motor. I am told that the motor worked but after hooking it up I find it will not turn on or even make any sound. Is there some kind of internal temp switch on these motors that might be keeping it from running and if so how can i bypass it. The only component I see on the stator housing is a capacitor

  3. Beverly E. Newman says:

    During the winter months my attic isn’t hot , but cold; 17 degrees .
    I need input on closing off the vents during winter.
    Thank you.

  4. greg says:

    I am installing the 20w gable fan in Portland, OR about 40 miles north of the 45th parallel. My gable ends face east and west so I plan to mount the solar panel on the south side of the ridge. the slope is not very steep maybe 6:12 or 4:12. The solar panel has a bracket that allows 3 different positions. in the lowest position it angles up about 15˚ from flat. Adding this to the angle of my roof puts the overall angle of the panel at close to 45˚ to the south.
    My question is this: in mid Summer when the fan is most needed for cooling, when the Sun is 23.5˚ to the North, is this going to be the best angle for the solar panel? I’m wondering if I should reverse the brackets so the panel can face straight up and more directly at the Sun during hot Summer/late Spring/early Fall?

    • Sabina Mathews says:

      You can tilt the panel slightly to north. Also there are apps that you can also use, Solar Tilt, Optimum Tilt Angle for Solar.

  5. RUSSELL SLOAN says:

    Are any of the Remington solar attic fans eligible for the Federal solar tax credit being offered for so many other solar devices for the home this year?

  6. chunki says:

    Installed Solar attic fan with optional 110v adapter yesterday.

    First, when the professional installed the solar fan, it operates fine.

    After he connected the adapter and plug in to outlet, the fan stops working.

    After he dis connected the adapter and plug two fan connectors, the fan starts spinning.

    The professional found and told me the ground wire on the fan is loosen.

    He re-secured the ground wire, connected adapter and this time, the fan starts spinning.

    I saw the fan was still spinning yesterday night.

    I saw the fan was stopped today morning (I think it’s because temperature was below 80)

    The problem is

    Today, at noon, it was very hot, full of sun on the roof,
    The fan was not spinning at all!!

    I unpluged adapter cord from outlet, the fan started spinning.
    When I pluged back, the fan stops.

    I think there is something wrong with the fan or adapter.
    Not sure which one.

    Now, fan stopped wether I plug in or unplug.

    Difference is when I plug adapter cord in, no sound, no fan movement.

    When I unplug the cord, there is clicking sound every 2~3 sec, little fan movement but no spinning.

    What’s wrong? I wanna try disconnecting the adapter unit but I do not have ladder to access.

    If it’s the adapter problem, I will buy a ladder and try to remove the adapter.

    If it’s the fan, I am not sure what I need to do now.

  7. Jagajit says:

    I have a solar attic fan installed and it has been running perfectly for the last 2 years. Since the last week it makes a click, click sound but does not run. What could be the fault?

  8. Jeff Johnson says:

    I recently purchased and installed a SF20 fan with the 110 adapter. I was watching it last night after the sun went down and the fan would run for 3-4 seconds, then stop, then run again for 3-4 seconds and it kept doing this for about an hour until the temperature must have dropped below 80 and it finally shut off. Is it normal for it to pulse like that, rather than just continuously running?

  9. Johnnie says:

    I’m replacing my roof in the next few weeks, already have ridge vents, give me my options on installing your solar attic vents, I have purchased 4 for the contractor to install

  10. Aaron says:

    Hey, I live in south Houston, serious heat soak in my attic. I have two electric fan I installed, but do to the fact my house has no soffit vent (because I have no overhang) I reversed one of the motors to pull and the other to push. I was just wondering with the brushless motors on your product, can I flip the fan around on the shaft? Or do you offer a reverse option of some kind?

    • Murray Smith says:

      Well, you really can’t reverse airflow, but let me tell you what I did on an old tudor house with no soffit ventilation. (Just like yours…and by the way, the attic was truly unbelievably hot in Dallas) I put 3 static fans down low on the roof. This served as my intake. I put the Remington Solar attic fans near the ridge. That actually created a nice convection current and my attic cooled down almost 35 degrees.

  11. Michael Saia says:

    Hi. To whom this concerns. I purchased a solar attic fan last year and was installed in the fall. I have just noticed that the fan is not working. Can you suggest what to do or check. Or does it need to be replaced? Thank you for your help your customer Michael Saia

  12. Mike says:

    For the sfg20 the thermostadt is zip tied to the fan mount, but hangs down enough to hit the fan blade. I haven’t installed the unit yet.

    Should the sensor be zip tied to the fan mount more securely, or should it be mounted elsewhere?

    • Murray Smith says:

      You need to clip the zip tie and let the thermostat hang down into your attic. Then it won’t hit the fan, and it will give you a true temperature reading in your attic.

  13. Russell H Lau says:

    Are the fan and motor on the 30w solar fan servicable from the exterior without removing the flashing/shroud from the roof? I have no access to my attic.

  14. Johnnie says:

    My son replaced an existing vent with a solar vent,but a rafter is in the center of the hole. What do you suggest he do?

  15. Craig Jordan says:

    I am considering installing either two or three solar gable fans Will the 110V adaptor work with them?

  16. Burton Sage says:

    I bought two 30 watt units to ventilate an enclosed swimming pool. Both worked as described the first night, but one was not working the next morning. I am writing to compliment the customer support group at Remington for the help that I received. No waiting on hold. Emailed images were sent within minutes. Had the fan working again the same day as I noticed that it wasn’t working. Wouldn’t it be great if all companies supported their customers like this!

    By the way, these two fans have also provided the ventilation for the pool that was needed.

  17. Gary says:

    Hi, I need some advice on a new purchase(s), I live in the Dallas area, due south facing front. I have owned 3 solar attic fans installed in 2003, one on east (south corner) and 2 on west. Our home is 2500SF with attic spanning entire footprint and pitch of about 18-20FT at its peak. Each fan is 11 watt–for areas up to 1200FT. We could have gone more but in 2004 these were about $1200 a piece installed and not many options on the market at that time. We were happy about the results and temperature change.

    Recently, the 2 west fans stopped working and when I called the manufacturer I found the cost and install for new motors not an option. BTW, one of the westside fans was installed over a rafter because there was no other option for location. Existing holes are 14.5″.

    My questions are:

    1. Will adding 2 20 watt Remington fans be overkill on the west side?
    2. Or should I move one of those to the east side and put the old one on the west?
    3. Or should I buy a 25/30 watt fan and cover the other hole?
    4. Or buy 2 new, cover west hole with rafter obstruction? If so what size should I buy?

    Any help on my new install would be greatly appreciated.

    • Murray Smith says:

      Hopefully you weren’t talking about the expense with regard to Remington Solar fans. We know solar attic fans are expensive, and we try to make it affordable. I think any time you can over power a bit, you’ll be glad you did. Two 20W on west side are fine. If you have a chance to use an existing hole, we recommend you take advantage of that, but you want good spacing in your attic. For the money, I’d go with 2 30W fans. You’ll be glad you did. Contact support@remingtonsolar.com if you have any more questions.

  18. StL says:

    I have an 1885 brick, single story shotgun-style house with a flat membrane roof. There is no attic, only a small gap between the ceiling and roof. Heat & humidity build up in a stairwell that extends from basement to roof, so much so that the stairwell’s drop ceiling drooped & eventually collapsed. Is a solar fan a good solution for the humidity build up and if so, do I need a curb? I’m in Missouri.
    Thank you!

    • Murray Smith says:

      You only need a curb on a flat roof, or a tile roof. It’s a composition shingle roof (where you can flash underneath the shingles), then you don’t need a curb (or a curb mount adapter, obviously).

  19. Ned Gartner says:

    I recently installed a solar attic fan. My wife noticed a thumping noise when the fan is running. After I crawled over to the fan I noticed that it was running; however, the fan blade was not rotating. I stuck my finger up and twirled the blade and it caught and started to work fine. So the fan does not rotate when the motor starts. The thumping says that the motor is revolving but not engaging the fan. Is there a way to fix this??? When the fan is going it is quiet but when the fan is not engaged there is a thumping. The shaft of the motor is working but it is not engaging the fan. HELP!!!!

  20. Pete Weller says:

    I have a house (Southern California) with an addon bedroom having three exterior (uninsulated) walls. Inside, the room is open to the underside of the roof, which has been wood paneled on the inside, without insulation. The room is too hot in the summer. There are no gable vents. (There is a fixed glass window in the gable, adding to the heat problem.) I’m thinking about installing a solar roof vent and a grid covering the fan duct on the inside, which will be visible from the room. Will this application work? Will it be quiet enough during daylight hours?

  21. Mark K says:

    I live in Connecticut, and in the summer months, the temperature can get very hot outside and extremely hot in the attic. The house is 1,800 sf with only two 18″ x 24″ gable vents as a source of air flow, (no eaves on the house, so no soffits nor ridge vent). Can I go with a the 30w fan or is that overkill? Also, given that in the winter months we can get a lot of snow, and since the fan needs to be tilted in order to maximize sun exposure, what is the risk of seeing any leaks?

  22. Matt says:

    Hi, in a humid tropical climate, does the fan remove the hot dry air in the attic, and pull in more humid air from the outside, possibly leading to humid attic conditions (i.e. not good for wood rot, termites etc.) Or is it better to just let it be hot and dry air up there?. In other words, is it an ok practice to blow out the hot dry air and replace it with more humid air pulled in from the outside by the fan?

    • Murray Smith says:

      We typical recommend that ventilation and moving air is a good thing. Typically hotter air can hold more water. Therefore, it is likely that your attic is wetter than outside. However, you’re not going to feel “wind” or blowing through your attic. It’s simply ventilating a large body of air through your attic. The humidistat that is built into your fan should move the humid air out when necessary (even below the thermostat setting of 80 degrees).

  23. Mark Wagner says:

    In your ‘show and tell’ podcast, you suggest installing the solar attic fan five feet below ridge vent and yet you mention that any static vents within 10 feet should be closed off. If that is the case, shouldn’t the solar fan be lower than 5 feet below the ridge vent. In other words, if the solar fan can draw air in from the static vents within 10 feet, wouldn’t the solar fan draw air in from the ridge vent at 5 feet from the fan? Would it be beneficial to move the solar fan even lower than 5 feet down from ridge vents?

    • Murray Smith says:

      Great point, however, assuming that your ridge vents are higher than where your fan is installed, you only need that 5 foot distance because the hot air will be rising. If you have another static vent nearby at roughly the same height then the air could conceivable travel laterally across your attic. I’m probably not being clear, sorry. In other words, if you create a chimney effect, then your hot air will be moving up quickly. Otherwise, simply keep your other open vents away from your attic fan.

  24. Richard Curry says:

    lack of ventilation is costing me a new roof. We live in southern Va., and have a 2 story house with 1800 square feet of attic space. about 1/2 of that space is occupied by a finished 3rd floor that limits air flow access to the 4 passive turbine vents on roof. there is adequate eave ventilation, but nowhere for the air to go. I want to try 2 30watt fans , one in the “open” space and one over the 3rd floor to try to draw air into that narrow space with limited air access. The heat in the attic has cooked the shingles, decreased effectiveness of AC and has caused all kinds of condensation issues with ductwork. Is my plan solid?

  25. Timothy Bryant says:

    I have had 2, 30 watt solar attic fans for about a year now. One of them has stopped working for about a month now. It is not the thermostat. The motor is making noises and sticking.The fan will turn 180 degrees and stop briefly and turn again and stop. Can I replace the motor?

  26. John says:

    I am considering replacing 2 existing mushroom style roof vents with solar vents. I have about 1600 sq ft attic in central Texas. The roof sections do not face south however. Would the tilted panel units make up for a north facing roof? Or is it necessary to add holes to the street side of the house, which faces south?

    • Murray Smith says:

      Yes, the tilt should take care of it. Just make sure that the sun will hit those tilted panels. Meaning, the exiting vent holes should be high enough to take advantage of the tilt and hit the sun. (Can’t be in the shade)

  27. David Melin says:

    I’m replacing an el-powered attic roof fan in Salt Lake City. 1200 square’ above ground. 1) A 15″ hole has already been cut for this old unit…do I need to get an adapter spacer to use with your 30 Watt 1550CFM model? 2) We had 13 straight days over 101 last summer – does this fan continue to run 24/7 if outside temp doesn’t get below 80 ? 3) Would like to be el-power free, so can I reset the thermostat to start/stop like a 85 or do I need the additional hybrid adaptor?

  28. CB says:

    I am considering purchasing a 30W unit. I live in middle Georgia & have a few trees in my backyard which faces east where I would place the unit. The south roof is far too visible. I’m concerned about sufficient sunlight & how to orient the unit. I can imagine orienting it so the panel hinges up (flat) & alternatively so it hinges south. Vertically would look much better but I would like your opinion about how the power generated & unit’s function might be different.

  29. John Corliss says:

    I have an older home in Central New York, I am having the roofers install my 30 watt Remington Solar fan today. However, I received a call that they are unable to install the Soffit vents they had quoted (3/4 second story walls so the soffits extend well away from the roughly 290 cubit foot of crawl space). The crawl space area has blown insulation and rolled fiberglass insulation. Soffit vents can not be installed without removing A LOT of insulation. At the moment, I have no ridge vent or soffit vents. I have a .75 sq ft triangular gable vent on either end of my home. Will these be sufficient intake for the 1550 CFM solar fan?

    Also, I purchased my Remington Solar Attic Fan at The Home Depot. How do I make sure the unit is operational within the 90 day return policy? I do not foresee the heat/humidity reaching the thresholds to activate anytime soon.

  30. Anthony Sicuranzo says:

    I have a 5000 sqft metal commercial building in Central California. How many 30w vents should I use to bring down the inside temperature.

  31. Nick S. says:

    I had the 30 watt unit for 4 months now. Recently, the fan makes a clicking noise because it’s trying to rotate but does not. This only happens in the AM when the sun hasn’t fully hit the panel. It’s eventually spins full force once the sun is directly on it. Do you recommend greasing the motor with a silicone spray to loosen it up?

    • Murray Smith says:

      Great question. The fan motor will operate when there is 9V or more. Otherwise, it may “vibrate” back and forth until the sun gets a little stronger. This is a natural function of the fan that uses solar.

  32. Tim Berhow says:

    Hello, I purchased a 20 and a 30 watt fan. The 20 is for y garge an the 30 is for my attic. I have a 1500 squar foot house, I am confident that the 30 will be great. My garage is a 20×25 two car. I am worried that I did not purchase a large enough fan for the entire garage, Can I return this fan with out the box? Is the 20 watt fan enough or more than enough to pull the hot air out?


    Do you have the form that shows your Solar Attic Fans as having “This statement certifies that the above referenced products qualify for the Federal 30% tax credit for energy-efficient products installed from January 1, 2009-December 31, 2016” ?

  34. Kevin says:

    I live in 3550 sq ft 2 story house in southern california, the upstairs bedroom gets very hot, will installing attic fan help cool down the bedrooms upstairs & how many fans would I need ?

    • Murray Smith says:

      Assuming that your 2-story means that the upstairs is 1,775 sq ft? If so, then I would go with 1 25W (or even a 30W. For the price difference, after tax rebate, you’re talking only $35 difference). It will definitely help cool your attic, your upstairs, and your house.

  35. Steve Wiles says:

    I need to ventilate a storage room (converted garage). It is 16′ x 20′. I calculated it to be about 3200 cf. from wall to wall, floor to roof. Will a 20 watt fan be enough? Trying to keep the cost down. I live in Los Angeles. Thanks!

  36. Travis says:

    I have an 1850 sq ft home in Fort Worth, TX and I’m looking at the 25 or 30 Watt models

    I have an existing “passive” vent (no fan, just air) almost directly above my unit in the attic. I don’t know the dimensions of the vent, but it appears to of size necessary to replace with your product.

    Also, my research has also uncovered some of the anti-attic fan crowd–saying that such products will only suck out conditioned air from your HVAC unit and the house itself, thereby making it MORE expensive to cool your home.

    What say you about such claims?

    To my knowledge, it does not appear my home is all that “leaky” when it comes to conditioned air in to my attic–I was in my attic a couple weeks back doing some work and can attest to the heat and humidity up there compared to my living space

  37. Christopher Herron says:

    I have a 750 sq. ft. house, in the Hood River, Oregon area (45 degrees N. latitude), roof slope 6 in 12.

    1. Would your 20W unit be appropriate for this square footage? If not, which do you recommend?

    2. A recent comment/answer here from a Florida houseowner seems to indicate that the units with a tilting panel may leak in a rainstorm. I would be reluctant to have a roof that leaks in any fashion.

    3. I like your website and (so far) your customer service attitude.

    • Sabina Mathews says:

      1. The 20w or even the 25w would be good.
      2. We’ve heard of a few drips coming in, but nothing serious.
      3.Thank you.

  38. RY says:

    Hello, I have four static “eyelid” roof vents spaced evenly along the length of my roof at 4 feet from the ridgeline. I plan to install two solar fans to improve attic circulation. Should I removed two of the static vents and install the fans in the existing holes/locations? Or should I cut new holes for the fans? In other words, will having static vents interfere with proper airflow? I have soffit vents for air intake. Thanks for your advice!

  39. Joe Ritacco says:

    I need to replace a no longer working electric powered attic vent fan.
    1. Circular hole already exists between 16 inch joists. Hole appears to be (hard to measure precisely) more like 15-16 inch diameter. Will this create problem to install any of your solar powered unite which I think call for 14 or 19 inch diameter hole?
    2. Any reason to buy/install AC adapter at initial install time (I will be hiring someone)or is it just as easy to buy/install at later date …if I deem it is needed after get some experience with unit?

    • Murray Smith says:

      Great questions. You can easily retrofit an existing fan hole. You can also buy the adapter in the future. You can easily install later without any tools (as long as you have a 110V outlet in your attic.

  40. Tom S. says:

    I am in Central Florida. The house is 2000 sf under roof. When it rains and it will, can water get past a 30W fan if the panel is tilted ? What are the odds of it sucking up any insulation?

    • Murray Smith says:

      Anything possible, but for the most part, you should stay dry. We’ve heard of a few drips coming in, but nothing serious. Also, it cannot suck up insulation. It’s moving a large volume of air, and it doesn’t have the ability to disturb blown-in insulation.

  41. kevin legard says:

    i am interested in purchasing the 30 watt model my question is on a 1600 sq ft home in central texas about how much difference in attic temperature should i expect in the texas heat of summer? any idea on rough estimate of electricty/cooling savings i could possibly expect?

    • Murray Smith says:

      Great question that we seldom answer! The reason is every house is different. Different in so many ways. That’s not a cop out answer, but I can tell you my 2,300 sq/ft home saw a decrease from 155 to 120 in a Texas August. That’s a huge drop and it made a huge difference. The differentiating factors for you will be location, insulation, thermal properties of house, location of fans, etc. However, overall, most customers are very pleased with the performance. It’s typically an obvious improvement.

  42. Tim says:

    I’m looking at getting the 30-watt solar fan, plus hybrid adapter.
    2 questions:
    1. Is there a way to turn off the fan if there is any issue (or just say it is too loud, although I know it is not supposed to be) during the day?
    2. Is there any remote control that can let you turn on/off the fan from inside the house?
    Thank you-

    • Murray Smith says:

      1. No 2. No. You need to leave the adapter connected to the solar. However, noise will not be an issue. Just set it all up and let it do it’s thing. It’s designed to keep you more comfortable and save you money, just the way we built it.

  43. Willem Kernkamp says:

    I recently ordered an adapter for the 25W solar fan. As mentioned in the instructions the 115v power should go to the adapter prior to connecting it to the solar fan to prevent damaging a chip in the adapter. I live in an area with above ground power lines, sometimes causing unexpected power outages.
    What happens to the chip during such an outage at daylight with solar power going to the adapter and no 115V from the net? Will the chip be damaged?

    • Murray Smith says:

      We actually get that question a lot. The warning applies to a component in the adapter which manages the power information between the 110V and the solar panel. That component has recently been modified so the warning does not apply, but it’s still definitely a good idea to keep both plugged in. A power interruption should not be a problem.

  44. Ed Cebula says:

    I have a very low pitch on my tar and gravel roof, perhaps 2on12. Do I need a curb, how tall, how do I flash the curb and seal it? And finally, how do I seal the solar attic fan to the curb? I need your help, detailed drawings and instructions would be greatly appreciated. Ed,,,,,,Sonoma, California

    • Murray Smith says:

      You’re probably good without a curb mount, but they are helpful to raise the unit off your roof. It’s mainly to protect from standing water. (Commercial and Industrial applications)

  45. Joseph says:

    I just had the Remington Solar 30 solar watt attic fan installed. I also purchased the The 110V solar adapter kit.

    RE: The 110V solar adapter. On the bottom of the adapter there is a label:

    Follow these steps exactly to prevent electrical damage to your fan and adapter!
    1) Unplug your thicker adapter wires underneath your fan FIRST
    2) Plug your 110V adapter into your 110V power source SECOND
    3) Plug the adapter wires to your Remington Solar attic fan THIRD
    (You don’t want solar power (DC) going to your adapter without 110V (AC)

    If I understand this correctly, once the 110V solar adapter is CONNECTED to the fan… you can NEVER UN-PLUG the 110 V AC source while the sun is out, and the solar panel is providing solar power to the van. Is that correct?
    I ask because my 110 V (AC) power source is on a “switched outlet”, making it convenient to turn the 110V (AC) power on/off without climbing to the top of the attic to unplug it.
    The way this “WARNING” label reads… Once connected with 110 V AC power, you can never REMOVE AC power, without damaging the fan or adapter. Am that correct or am I missing something here?

    • Murray Smith says:

      Sorry for the scary warning. Just means that you cannot put a switch on it. However, in case of a temporary power outage, you should be ok. You just don’t want the sun shining on the panel without constant 110V power on the other side. This confuses the microchip in the adapter. We have actually made some changes to the adapter so this isn’t critical, but it’s still a good idea to keep both power sources connected.

  46. Joe A says:

    I have a small, 1920’s Bungalow style home (about 1000 sqft). My roof design does not have soffit vents, nor a ridge vent. Instead I have a number of box style static louver vents spaced across the north pitch of the roof. My roof has a north and south pitch (nothing east/west), and there are no vents on the south pitch. Vents appear to be 8 in circles (total of 4)

    Is there a minimum number of static vents that I’d need to help feed the attic intake as the fan exhausts?

    • Murray Smith says:

      They do NOT have Miami-Dade certification. We sell a lot of fans to Florida, but it’s primarily in northern Florida or where a Florida inspection certificate is not required. Please check with your local inspectors if an inspection is required. (Just FYI, we are Texas Windstorm Certified and our fans are quality products. Florida requires excessive “testing fees” which we cannot justify.)

    • Murray Smith says:

      No they are not. However, we sell lots of fans to Florida. They are not Miami-Dade certified, but are better than many brands that are. Check with your local inspector before purchasing.

  47. John Saporito says:

    The solar attic fan is great (excellent), this a must have unit, I’m very satisfied, and I also recommend it a must have for a hot attic.

  48. James Robertson says:

    If I was approved as a distributer in Sacramento, CA, why would homeowners buy from me rather than Home Depot? I’m from the pest control industry and licensed to sell services on practically every kind of pest. What product are you using to kill the mosquitos?

  49. Peter Caryotakis says:

    Schools in CA and elsewhere are burning up. Air conditioning would be expensive and overkill. Can your product work to vent from a classroom directly from classroom through the ceiling, limited insulation, and roof?

    Do your fans have sensors to know when they should be venting?

    We have lots of classrooms, so perhaps experimenting with a few of the worst cases would be where we would start. This room has hit 84 degrees all week long with fans running overtime. There is no way to vent the room through low windows. The room is 33′ by 30′ so about…1000 sq ft…the ceiling slopes from 9’5 to 12’… so.. something like 10,000 cu ft.

    Are there contractors in the Menlo Park (94028) area that could do the work??

    BIG BUCKS for the company that figures out how to cool classrooms down efficiently across CA and the sunbelt!!

  50. Dave says:

    We live in NY and main concern is keeping attic below freezing in winter when the sun is shining on roof where the snow is partially melted. How does the thermostat work in the winter?

    • Murray Smith says:

      Thanks for the question, Dave. The thermostat is designed to turn the fan on above 80 degrees. In winter, your fan will not activate below 80 degrees, UNLESS it is above 60 percent relative humidity. In northern climates, wet attics in the winter are much more of a problem. Ice damming can also occur. Our fans are designed to be as important in summer to hot climates as they are in winter in cold, wet climates. Great question!

  51. TJ says:

    Hi. I have a 2300 sq/ft house in Phoenix AZ. I have seen your fans on HomeDepot.com and read the reviews. Wow. Great product. But how many fans do I need? I do have ridge vents but they don’t seem to be working very well.

    • Murray Smith says:

      Hi TJ,
      My immediate suggestion would be to buy 2 Remington Solar 30-watt fans (black or gray). You are right on the end specifications for a single 30 Watt, but I’d go ahead and get 2 to make sure you get the proper ventilation. You need at least 4 sq/ft of intake (soffit) ventilation per fan. With ridge vents, be sure to install you fans at least 5 feet away. Please contact us if you need any additional information at 214-257-8300.

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