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o you have a hot attic? Do you have a hot garage? Do you want to discuss sizing options? Do you have ridge vents? All comments welcome!
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Do you have a hot attic? Do you have a hot garage? Do you want to discuss sizing options? Do you have ridge vents? All comments welcome!
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My roof is south facing and is steep. I am thinking about inclining the panels but wonder if birds nest under the panel?
Not an issue
I purchased the round 20 watt solar attic fan this past spring. It worked great for a couple months but now it rotates extremely slow — maybe one revolution per second. It pulsates back and forth until the sun gets high enough then only a very slow rotation. Temperature doesn’t seem to matter anymore — if the sun is high enough it will rotate at the very slow rate. Essentially what I now have is a vent hole allowing heat to rise out the roof.
Contact [email protected]
I recently purchased the 30 watt Builders Series with 110v adapter included. I am wondering how the CFM performance of the product I purchased should compare in these 3 scenarios:
1. 120 degree attic temperature, full direct sunlight, attic fan connected to the 110v adapter.
2. 120 degree attic temperature, full direct sunlight, attic fan NOT connected to adapter, motor connected directly to solar panel.
3. 120 degree attic temperature, severe overcast or complete shading of panel, attic fan connected to the 110v adapter.
I look forward to your response.
Ok, so this is a fantastic question….and a terrible question! Here’s why. Every house is different. (That’s not a “cop out”, it’s true.) However, as a customer myself, I’d want these answers too. Let me answer this in two comments. First, for the attic fan to cool your attic, you need good soffit ventilation. In the scenarios you describe, you won’t see much improvement unless you make sure you have good outside airflow coming in. During the daytime, check your attic and make sure you can see sunlight coming in from around the edges of your attic floor towards the roof. Or, you may have a gable vent to allow air in from one end. The second way I’ll answer your question is this: because every house is different, the best data we have gotten comes anecdotally from customers. You should expect to see a 10 to 30 degree temperature drop. The 110V adapter will merely run the fan when the sun goes down to keep the cooling effect in place. If it’s overcast, and the sensor on the 110V adapter is reading less than 9 volts, it will roll to house power. Because the 110V adapter is running on your house power, the fan will blow faster, thus help your cooling effect. The 110V adapter is only if your house is still hot after the sun goes down and you want the fan to keep running until the attic temperature drops below 80 degrees. Hope that helps.
Can you change the thermostat setpoint? Can you wire a switch in parallel with the thermostat/humidistat? Does the sealant only go on top of the flashing?
Only with the Wi-Fi thermostat (sold separately) can you change the thermostat and humidity settings. Otherwise it’s factory set at 80 degrees.
Murray – Is there an API or documentation on how to integrate with the fans/hub programmatically? Curious as to whether one could integrate Home Assistant (https://www.home-assistant.io/) with the fans … that would made a nice if able to pull temperature data or do fan control with on a home assist dashboard.
We have not developed 3rd party devices for this. You’ll have to experiment on your own! Interesting ideas though
I am installing the 20w gable fan in Portland, OR about 40 miles north of the 45th parallel. My gable ends face east and west so I plan to mount the solar panel on the south side of the ridge. the slope is not very steep maybe 6:12 or 4:12. The solar panel has a bracket that allows 3 different positions. in the lowest position it angles up about 15˚ from flat. Adding this to the angle of my roof puts the overall angle of the panel at close to 45˚ to the south.
My question is this: in mid Summer when the fan is most needed for cooling, when the Sun is 23.5˚ to the North, is this going to be the best angle for the solar panel? I’m wondering if I should reverse the brackets so the panel can face straight up and more directly at the Sun during hot Summer/late Spring/early Fall?
https://remingtonsolar.com/get-paid-to-go-green/
It will work, but you need to have some kind of intake (soffit vent)….that is, a way for fresh air to come in and replace the hot air going out.
You only need a curb on a flat roof, or a tile roof. It’s a composition shingle roof (where you can flash underneath the shingles), then you don’t need a curb (or a curb mount adapter, obviously).
Why does the fan keep running when it’s 70° and 52% humidity shouldn’t it automatically cut off
Contact [email protected]
My son replaced an existing vent with a solar vent,but a rafter is in the center of the hole. What do you suggest he do?
Not a problem whatsoever. Just leave the rafter alone. Airflow shouldn’t be affected. (Hopefully you didn’t cut through the rafter!)
I am considering installing either two or three solar gable fans Will the 110V adaptor work with them?
Yes. Our 110V adapter works on the gable fans as well.
I bought two 30 watt units to ventilate an enclosed swimming pool. Both worked as described the first night, but one was not working the next morning. I am writing to compliment the customer support group at Remington for the help that I received. No waiting on hold. Emailed images were sent within minutes. Had the fan working again the same day as I noticed that it wasn’t working. Wouldn’t it be great if all companies supported their customers like this!
By the way, these two fans have also provided the ventilation for the pool that was needed.
Hi, I need some advice on a new purchase(s), I live in the Dallas area, due south facing front. I have owned 3 solar attic fans installed in 2003, one on east (south corner) and 2 on west. Our home is 2500SF with attic spanning entire footprint and pitch of about 18-20FT at its peak. Each fan is 11 watt–for areas up to 1200FT. We could have gone more but in 2004 these were about $1200 a piece installed and not many options on the market at that time. We were happy about the results and temperature change.
Recently, the 2 west fans stopped working and when I called the manufacturer I found the cost and install for new motors not an option. BTW, one of the westside fans was installed over a rafter because there was no other option for location. Existing holes are 14.5″.
My questions are:
1. Will adding 2 20 watt Remington fans be overkill on the west side?
2. Or should I move one of those to the east side and put the old one on the west?
3. Or should I buy a 25/30 watt fan and cover the other hole?
4. Or buy 2 new, cover west hole with rafter obstruction? If so what size should I buy?
Any help on my new install would be greatly appreciated.
Hopefully you weren’t talking about the expense with regard to Remington Solar fans. We know solar attic fans are expensive, and we try to make it affordable. I think any time you can over power a bit, you’ll be glad you did. Two 20W on west side are fine. If you have a chance to use an existing hole, we recommend you take advantage of that, but you want good spacing in your attic. For the money, I’d go with 2 30W fans. You’ll be glad you did. Contact [email protected] if you have any more questions.
I recently installed a solar attic fan. My wife noticed a thumping noise when the fan is running. After I crawled over to the fan I noticed that it was running; however, the fan blade was not rotating. I stuck my finger up and twirled the blade and it caught and started to work fine. So the fan does not rotate when the motor starts. The thumping says that the motor is revolving but not engaging the fan. Is there a way to fix this??? When the fan is going it is quiet but when the fan is not engaged there is a thumping. The shaft of the motor is working but it is not engaging the fan. HELP!!!!
Very strange! Is the screw on the motor shaft tight? (You can check with a stubby phillips head). Contact [email protected] if this is still a problem.
Does the 30W attic fan have a tilt adjust solar panel?
If not can it be converted?
Yes, it does.
Can you recommend an installer in Nashville? Zip code 37014 Arrington.
Best way we’ve found to get an installer is look for “roofer” on Craigslist.org.
I live in Connecticut, and in the summer months, the temperature can get very hot outside and extremely hot in the attic. The house is 1,800 sf with only two 18″ x 24″ gable vents as a source of air flow, (no eaves on the house, so no soffits nor ridge vent). Can I go with a the 30w fan or is that overkill? Also, given that in the winter months we can get a lot of snow, and since the fan needs to be tilted in order to maximize sun exposure, what is the risk of seeing any leaks?
You should get at least one 30W. Definitely not overkill.
Contact [email protected] and we’ll get you up and running quickly.
I think you will be pleasantly surprised. I’m also glad you are going with 2 30W fans. It’s best to get as much ventilation as possible.
Hi, in a humid tropical climate, does the fan remove the hot dry air in the attic, and pull in more humid air from the outside, possibly leading to humid attic conditions (i.e. not good for wood rot, termites etc.) Or is it better to just let it be hot and dry air up there?. In other words, is it an ok practice to blow out the hot dry air and replace it with more humid air pulled in from the outside by the fan?
We typical recommend that ventilation and moving air is a good thing. Typically hotter air can hold more water. Therefore, it is likely that your attic is wetter than outside. However, you’re not going to feel “wind” or blowing through your attic. It’s simply ventilating a large body of air through your attic. The humidistat that is built into your fan should move the humid air out when necessary (even below the thermostat setting of 80 degrees).
In your ‘show and tell’ podcast, you suggest installing the solar attic fan five feet below ridge vent and yet you mention that any static vents within 10 feet should be closed off. If that is the case, shouldn’t the solar fan be lower than 5 feet below the ridge vent. In other words, if the solar fan can draw air in from the static vents within 10 feet, wouldn’t the solar fan draw air in from the ridge vent at 5 feet from the fan? Would it be beneficial to move the solar fan even lower than 5 feet down from ridge vents?
Great point, however, assuming that your ridge vents are higher than where your fan is installed, you only need that 5 foot distance because the hot air will be rising. If you have another static vent nearby at roughly the same height then the air could conceivable travel laterally across your attic. I’m probably not being clear, sorry. In other words, if you create a chimney effect, then your hot air will be moving up quickly. Otherwise, simply keep your other open vents away from your attic fan.
I am considering replacing 2 existing mushroom style roof vents with solar vents. I have about 1600 sq ft attic in central Texas. The roof sections do not face south however. Would the tilted panel units make up for a north facing roof? Or is it necessary to add holes to the street side of the house, which faces south?
Yes, the tilt should take care of it. Just make sure that the sun will hit those tilted panels. Meaning, the exiting vent holes should be high enough to take advantage of the tilt and hit the sun. (Can’t be in the shade)
I’m replacing an el-powered attic roof fan in Salt Lake City. 1200 square’ above ground. 1) A 15″ hole has already been cut for this old unit…do I need to get an adapter spacer to use with your 30 Watt 1550CFM model? 2) We had 13 straight days over 101 last summer – does this fan continue to run 24/7 if outside temp doesn’t get below 80 ? 3) Would like to be el-power free, so can I reset the thermostat to start/stop like a 85 or do I need the additional hybrid adaptor?
15″ hole is fine. You will need the adapter if you want it to run at night when it’s above 80 degrees.
I am considering purchasing a 30W unit. I live in middle Georgia & have a few trees in my backyard which faces east where I would place the unit. The south roof is far too visible. I’m concerned about sufficient sunlight & how to orient the unit. I can imagine orienting it so the panel hinges up (flat) & alternatively so it hinges south. Vertically would look much better but I would like your opinion about how the power generated & unit’s function might be different.
That’s why we have the hinge, so you can put it on an east-facing roof and point it back west (or flat to the earth). Then you should be fine.
I have an older home in Central New York, I am having the roofers install my 30 watt Remington Solar fan today. However, I received a call that they are unable to install the Soffit vents they had quoted (3/4 second story walls so the soffits extend well away from the roughly 290 cubit foot of crawl space). The crawl space area has blown insulation and rolled fiberglass insulation. Soffit vents can not be installed without removing A LOT of insulation. At the moment, I have no ridge vent or soffit vents. I have a .75 sq ft triangular gable vent on either end of my home. Will these be sufficient intake for the 1550 CFM solar fan?
Also, I purchased my Remington Solar Attic Fan at The Home Depot. How do I make sure the unit is operational within the 90 day return policy? I do not foresee the heat/humidity reaching the thresholds to activate anytime soon.
You should be fine.
Greetings
I have a 5000 sqft metal commercial building in Central California. How many 30w vents should I use to bring down the inside temperature.
If you are trying to cool it down via exhausting the entire space, you’d need at least 6.
I had the 30 watt unit for 4 months now. Recently, the fan makes a clicking noise because it’s trying to rotate but does not. This only happens in the AM when the sun hasn’t fully hit the panel. It’s eventually spins full force once the sun is directly on it. Do you recommend greasing the motor with a silicone spray to loosen it up?
Great question. The fan motor will operate when there is 9V or more. Otherwise, it may “vibrate” back and forth until the sun gets a little stronger. This is a natural function of the fan that uses solar.
You are welcome to return it if it’s in resellable condition. However, you may be ok with the 20W.
We have a metal roof all you installation refers to a shingle roof.
What is the options
A metal roof installer will know what to do. They typically will either bolt from the top, or bring it up from underneath.
For a storage room, your best bet is one 30-Watt. For the price difference (especially after the tax rebate), you’ll get a lot more ventilation power.
I live in 3550 sq ft 2 story house in southern california, the upstairs bedroom gets very hot, will installing attic fan help cool down the bedrooms upstairs & how many fans would I need ?
Assuming that your 2-story means that the upstairs is 1,775 sq ft? If so, then I would go with 1 25W (or even a 30W. For the price difference, after tax rebate, you’re talking only $35 difference). It will definitely help cool your attic, your upstairs, and your house.
You will do well with the 25W or the 30W. For the money, go ahead and go with the 30W. You’ll be glad you did.
I have a 750 sq. ft. house, in the Hood River, Oregon area (45 degrees N. latitude), roof slope 6 in 12.
1. Would your 20W unit be appropriate for this square footage? If not, which do you recommend?
2. A recent comment/answer here from a Florida houseowner seems to indicate that the units with a tilting panel may leak in a rainstorm. I would be reluctant to have a roof that leaks in any fashion.
3. I like your website and (so far) your customer service attitude.
1. No 2. No. You need to leave the adapter connected to the solar. However, noise will not be an issue. Just set it all up and let it do it’s thing. It’s designed to keep you more comfortable and save you money, just the way we built it.
Anything possible, but for the most part, you should stay dry. We’ve heard of a few drips coming in, but nothing serious. Also, it cannot suck up insulation. It’s moving a large volume of air, and it doesn’t have the ability to disturb blown-in insulation.
I need to replace a no longer working electric powered attic vent fan.
1. Circular hole already exists between 16 inch joists. Hole appears to be (hard to measure precisely) more like 15-16 inch diameter. Will this create problem to install any of your solar powered unite which I think call for 14 or 19 inch diameter hole?
2. Any reason to buy/install AC adapter at initial install time (I will be hiring someone)or is it just as easy to buy/install at later date …if I deem it is needed after get some experience with unit?
thx
Great questions. You can easily retrofit an existing fan hole. You can also buy the adapter in the future. You can easily install later without any tools (as long as you have a 110V outlet in your attic.
i am interested in purchasing the 30 watt model my question is on a 1600 sq ft home in central texas about how much difference in attic temperature should i expect in the texas heat of summer? any idea on rough estimate of electricty/cooling savings i could possibly expect?
Great question that we seldom answer! The reason is every house is different. Different in so many ways. That’s not a cop out answer, but I can tell you my 2,300 sq/ft home saw a decrease from 155 to 120 in a Texas August. That’s a huge drop and it made a huge difference. The differentiating factors for you will be location, insulation, thermal properties of house, location of fans, etc. However, overall, most customers are very pleased with the performance. It’s typically an obvious improvement.
Theoretically you can use it, but you will need to splice the new cable into the existing cable with wire connectors, then insulate. It will work just fine.
We actually get that question a lot. The warning applies to a component in the adapter which manages the power information between the 110V and the solar panel. That component has recently been modified so the warning does not apply, but it’s still definitely a good idea to keep both plugged in. A power interruption should not be a problem.
I have a very low pitch on my tar and gravel roof, perhaps 2on12. Do I need a curb, how tall, how do I flash the curb and seal it? And finally, how do I seal the solar attic fan to the curb? I need your help, detailed drawings and instructions would be greatly appreciated. Ed,,,,,,Sonoma, California
You’re probably good without a curb mount, but they are helpful to raise the unit off your roof. It’s mainly to protect from standing water. (Commercial and Industrial applications)
I just had the Remington Solar 30 solar watt attic fan installed. I also purchased the The 110V solar adapter kit.
RE: The 110V solar adapter. On the bottom of the adapter there is a label:
WARNING!
Follow these steps exactly to prevent electrical damage to your fan and adapter!
1) Unplug your thicker adapter wires underneath your fan FIRST
2) Plug your 110V adapter into your 110V power source SECOND
3) Plug the adapter wires to your Remington Solar attic fan THIRD
(You don’t want solar power (DC) going to your adapter without 110V (AC)
MY QUESTION…
If I understand this correctly, once the 110V solar adapter is CONNECTED to the fan… you can NEVER UN-PLUG the 110 V AC source while the sun is out, and the solar panel is providing solar power to the van. Is that correct?
I ask because my 110 V (AC) power source is on a “switched outlet”, making it convenient to turn the 110V (AC) power on/off without climbing to the top of the attic to unplug it.
The way this “WARNING” label reads… Once connected with 110 V AC power, you can never REMOVE AC power, without damaging the fan or adapter. Am that correct or am I missing something here?
Sorry for the scary warning. Just means that you cannot put a switch on it. However, in case of a temporary power outage, you should be ok. You just don’t want the sun shining on the panel without constant 110V power on the other side. This confuses the microchip in the adapter. We have actually made some changes to the adapter so this isn’t critical, but it’s still a good idea to keep both power sources connected.
Can’t sign on to your web site to register my fan!
https://remingtonsolar.com/register-your-product/
I have a small, 1920’s Bungalow style home (about 1000 sqft). My roof design does not have soffit vents, nor a ridge vent. Instead I have a number of box style static louver vents spaced across the north pitch of the roof. My roof has a north and south pitch (nothing east/west), and there are no vents on the south pitch. Vents appear to be 8 in circles (total of 4)
Is there a minimum number of static vents that I’d need to help feed the attic intake as the fan exhausts?
You may need to add some kind of intake ventilation. Please call our office at 214-257-8300 and we’ll help you out.
Are your fans rated for Florida?
They do NOT have Miami-Dade certification. We sell a lot of fans to Florida, but it’s primarily in northern Florida or where a Florida inspection certificate is not required. Please check with your local inspectors if an inspection is required. (Just FYI, we are Texas Windstorm Certified and our fans are quality products. Florida requires excessive “testing fees” which we cannot justify.)
No they are not. However, we sell lots of fans to Florida. They are not Miami-Dade certified, but are better than many brands that are. Check with your local inspector before purchasing.
The solar attic fan is great (excellent), this a must have unit, I’m very satisfied, and I also recommend it a must have for a hot attic.
Thanks so much John! Contact us if you have any questions.
Why can’t I find the product manual for the 110V solar adapter?
https://remingtonsolar.com/wp-content/uploads/110vadapter-Remington-Solar.mp4
If I was approved as a distributer in Sacramento, CA, why would homeowners buy from me rather than Home Depot? I’m from the pest control industry and licensed to sell services on practically every kind of pest. What product are you using to kill the mosquitos?
Contact us for dealer pricing.
what is the warranty on 25 watt solar attic fan?
Lifetime on components. If you have a problem, give us a call!
Well, that’s what we do. Please let us know how to contact the decision makers!
-Remington Solar Team
[email protected]
We live in NY and main concern is keeping attic below freezing in winter when the sun is shining on roof where the snow is partially melted. How does the thermostat work in the winter?
Thanks for the question, Dave. The thermostat is designed to turn the fan on above 80 degrees. In winter, your fan will not activate below 80 degrees, UNLESS it is above 60 percent relative humidity. In northern climates, wet attics in the winter are much more of a problem. Ice damming can also occur. Our fans are designed to be as important in summer to hot climates as they are in winter in cold, wet climates. Great question!
Hi TJ,
My immediate suggestion would be to buy 2 Remington Solar 30-watt fans (black or gray). You are right on the end specifications for a single 30 Watt, but I’d go ahead and get 2 to make sure you get the proper ventilation. You need at least 4 sq/ft of intake (soffit) ventilation per fan. With ridge vents, be sure to install you fans at least 5 feet away. Please contact us if you need any additional information at 214-257-8300.