Newbie to all things that is pool. Got intrigued by the Ionizer and own one now. We run 3-5 chlorine tablets a week through the chlorinator, shock the pool once a week and add Diatomite filter to the skimmer every week.
With Ionizer now in place, do I still need to add the Diatomite filter? Also, can I stop feeding chlorine tablets to the chlorinator? I understand the spot shocking on an as needed basis.
You can stop putting chlorine tabs in your chlorinator. However, you should keep a couple of tabs in your floaty. Not sure about the diametrious earth process. You will still have to manage your filtration system as you normally do.
My wing screw sheared off in the copper rod. I only had my unit for a month. Each time I disassemble to clean the screw is increasingly more difficult to install. It will go half way on and then stop turning. the blue cover is still flopping around at that point. Is there a way to keep this from happening.
We love how clean our pool is but we inadvertently squirt gunned some water into the garden beds and on some tree leaves and they don’t look so hot. Is that a thing?
Within 2 days of installing the device my pool never looked so clean, clear and inviting. And yes clor tab usage cut by 75%. I use more on my toilets than in the pool.
I use Clorox MaxxBlue 6-1 Chlorine Tablets in my floater – are these compatible with the Sun Shock? From reading here, it appears that you don’t want to use Algaecide with the Sun Shock, would these be ok in my floater?
Technically, you should be ok. But some chlorine uses cyanuric acid as a filler and stabilizer. Sun Shock (like any copper ionizer) doesn’t do well with cyanuric acid. It can cause purple stains. The stains will dissipate, but no one likes purple stains, so go easy at first with MaxxBlue.
Good question. You don’t need to test for anything. pH levels are primarily designed to control algae…which now is no longer an issue. However, do NOT use cyanuric acid or any other stabilizers or chemicals with this product.
Don’t put any acids in your pool. Nothing, except a small floaty of chlorine. If you have additional questions, please contact support@remingtonsolar.com
Cyanuric acid. Don’t use Sun Shock if you have high concentrations. It will dissipate, so don’t worry. Jack’s Magic Blue Stuff will remove it if you have bad stains.
Thanks for the feedback, Rick! The only “issues” we see relating to algae is the black algae. It seems to come in strong with very high copper levels. Just spot treat (or shock) with some powdered chlorine, and it should clear up immediately. That’s why we say Sun Shock will cut your chlorine use by 85%+ (not 100%)
Thank you for the question. Ideally, you only want to use Sun Shock in pure water. No other chemicals. However, you definitely want to keep a small floaty of a couple of chlorine tabs. (The manual should be clear about this). You don’t want to run chlorine through your chlorinator anymore. If you get a hard dirty rain and your pool greens up, then you can shock with chlorine powder, but let that dissipate and keep using your Sun Shock without adding additional powered chlorine.
It’s fine, as long as your pool is clear. Reading should be .1-.5. But even then, higher copper readings won’t hurt you. (We personally don’t like the copper test strips because readings can be thrown off by minerals and chemicals in your pool. Just watch for green water.)
Great question. I would expect the unit itself to last 2-3 seasons with normal usage. Some people like to buy a new one each year. Others like to baby theirs and maximize the life of the unit.
The well water with additional minerals could be the problem. Do you have other chemicals (acids?) in the pool at the time of install? Contact support@remingtonsolar.com for specific help.
Will this have any affect on water skimmer bugs? I’ve been using your product and my water looks great but we have these pesky bugs in our pool. Can I add muriatic acid?
Anywhere on the lower end (.1-.5) should be fine. Contact support@remingtonsolar.com if you have specific questions, however, sometimes the strips are not as accurate for copper testing due to environmental factors. Actually, I would not worry so much about the test strips. Put your Sun Shock in the water, and let us know if your pool turns green. It should be fine.
This past week both the coils and the copper rod have developed a black coating on it. It is usually covered with white material that flakes and collects in the basket. The only thing I added was a couple of chlorine tablets earlier in the week. Have added tablets before with no change in the color to the coils and the copper. Is this normal?
Totally normal. Your Sun Shock is working great. Some folks are surprised when they see discoloration and residue on the copper anode. This is the ionization process doing its job. You may even have minerals in the water that are being broken apart due to the ionization process. You may get some crazy colors! This is normal…and a good thing.
I have a solar sun shock in my 18,000 galon pool and when I tested the water, it read that there was no chlorine, about 30 alkalinity (should usually be 80-100), and the pH level was extremely low. Do i need to add anything or is this normal?
That’s the whole idea! You don’t want or need chlorine. Your chlorine levels will be zero. (It will drive your pool guy crazy.) Interestingly, you don’t need to worry about pH either. Welcome to our world!
I’m about to move into a house with a pool. If I use this and do a regular test kit will my numbers be all out of wack? Or would I still be shooting for the same numbers?
Great question. To use your words, it will be out of whack. Your pH will not be as important since pH manages algae growth. However, you are now using Sun Shock, so your algae should be under control.
I had your product for almost a year, I can tell It was amazing. But couple weeks ago I saw some black algae and start spread too fast. I test with the test provided test strip, and color was darker than 2.0 on the scale color. Does the copper ionized (metallic) too high cause this black algae (as some pool forum were mentioned) ? should I take the solar out when it reach 0.3 – 0.5 ?
Please advice
That can happen. (I’ve seen black algae in my pool occasionally). Simply spot treat with a bit of powdered chlorine, or shock with chlorine to get rid of it. It should go away instantly. This is one reason we say that you will use 85% less chlorine, not 100%. Occasionally, you’ll have to treat with shock, but not very often.
How long does it take for the copper to build up in an 18,000 gallon pool? Also, if I can figure out a way to measure the voltage between the copper anode and the coil, what should the voltage be in full sunlight?
You absolutely should NOT have any mustard algae in your pool. Try this: 1. Shock with chlorine and get your pool clear. 2. Make sure your Sun Shock is in the sun at least 4-5 hours per day. (You can check to make sure your Sun Shock is ionizing by putting the bottom, without the basket, and make sure the sun is shining on it. You will see a “mist” or small bubbles coming from the coils. That means copper is going into your pool As long as your pool is 22,000 gallons or less, you will not have algae in your pool. If you do not see a mist or bubbles, contact support@remingtonsolar.com.
So I have a 24′ round above ground pool. We fill with river water. Last year I struggled with yellow algee. While I was able to overcome it. Every time I vacuumed my pool the water was cloudy for a few days. Uggh.
I have had my sunshock in my pool for just a week (purchased @ Home Depot) WOW!
Crystal clear. No burning eyes and very little algee. The most amazing thing was even after vacuuming (after just 5 days) the water stayed Crystal clear!
I do have a chlorine tablet
floater still on pool as directed.
Now my question. Do I still need to “shock” my pool once a week?
My initial thought is no. But sure would like confirmation.
So far I LOVE THIS PRODUCT!
Just give your Sun Shock a little scrub every week or two, and you should be good. A little chlorine tab in the floaty is all you need. No shocking needed unless you get tons of rainwater and it turns green for some reason. Otherwise, leave it alone!
Hi and thanks in advance! I bought 2 solar ionizers one for my vinyl liner pool (30,000 gal) and one for my mom’s gunnite pool ( 18,000). I did have some algae growth in mine last year when the water temp went up. I did order an additional one for this season. When I opened the pool I took a water sample to the pool store and they said I needed to drain my pool because the copper level was really high. I figured it was from the ionizer and did not drain the pool. I’m hoping the additional ionizer will completely eliminate the need for chlorine this season. The question I have is with my mom’s pool. We live in PA. When there is a heavy rain her water turns brown. Could there be some chemical reaction going on? Thanks.
Don’t drain the water. The copper is because of the ionizer. That’s a good thing. Your pool supply store is not familiar with these, and we hear conflicting information occasionally. If the water turns brown after a rain, add a little chlorine shock and see if it clears up. Usually, there should be enough copper in the pool to prevent this from happening, but it sometimes happens after a big rain. That’s why we say “use up to 85% less chlorine”, not 100%.
Yes, however, you need to do your own research. We will not be liable for fish. All of our research (and experience) says these are safe for fish, but please do your own research.
I have had my solar shock in a few days. When I picked it up today to look at it, ALOT of black specs fell out of it and into the water. I was just wondering what this could be?
That is normal. The basket should pick up most of that, but it will filter out easily enough. It is simply metallic residue from the ionization process. There are minerals in your water that are breaking apart due to the ionization process, and that residue will accumulate on the anode. This is perfectly normal and means your Sun Shock is working fine.
I’ve had a Chlorine Free Sun Shock Ionizer for about a year and a half in my pool. I struggled for years fighting algae, spending a fortune on chemicals, scrubbing multiple times a week, I was ready to drain the pool until I found the Sun Shock. It completely cleared up my algae and the pool has looked great. My question is I’ve change the copper rod about three months ago and all was working well. I’ve recently started getting algae back in the pool. I cleaned the copper rod today and there was very little build up on the rod. Is there a way to tell if the solar panel is generating current to the rod?
Yes, definitely. Remove the basket and put the rod in a glass of water (while attached to the main unit, of course). Make sure it’s in direct sun. Look for tiny bubbles or a “mist” coming from the coils. contact support@remingtonsolar.com if you have further questions.
My pool is all marble and it’s indoors. The sun it gets is thru the ceiling glass could this be something that it would work for me? It’s two stories deep and the lowest part is 5’6″ so I can’t touch bottom and I thin should be like 45 ft
I want to protect the marble because I see with the Florine the marble is getting rough it is not smooth anymore
We just purchased this product and I was reading the manual where it states not to use this in conjunction with cyanuric acid. Since we have a chlorine pool, we have cya in there as well already at a level of 85 ppm. Can we go ahead and use this and avoid purple stains, or is that level of cya going to cause purple stains.
Actually, you don’t have to worry about “maximum copper”. It won’t hurt you. However, some black algae can build up with super high copper levels. Just treat with a little powdered chlorine and you should be fine.
I just got my ionizer. I read the manual online. My container of copper strips doesn’t say what the ideal should be, nor does the manual. In addition, the increment are 0.1 and higher. I notice someone in a previous comment stated their readings were 0.03. Can you tell me what copper readings I should watch for, ideal and too much?
Here’s the deal. The lower end of the scale (.1-.5) is fine. But even higher copper amounts won’t hurt anything. Sometimes black algae can thrive in higher copper, so if your copper reading goes way up, just remove the Sun Shock from the pool for a few weeks.
I used it all summer last year and my water has never been clearer. I love it. The question I have is how often do i need to replace to copper rod? I use is for about 3 months in the summer.
I recently purchased the solar shock and is working as advertised. My only concern is the 0 chlorine. I would think you have to use some so to kill any bacteria and so forth. We have a lot of neighborhood kids that swim in our pool and more than likely pee in our pool. I have seen several times that you should use 80% less chlorine. Is there and actual amount that is recommended to keep the water sanitized. It is sorta hard to read if the levels are good if the test strips say 0. Thanks in advance for your response. Jimmy
Yes, but remember, try using as little chemical as possible. Sun Shock should reduce your dependency on chlorine or bromine (or other pH balancers, chemicals, etc) by 85%+.
Great question. We use an alloy of copper and silver. The silver is effective on microbes and sanitization. Our anode is also designed to degrade over time. Not sure if Loews or Home Depot have solid copper, but they may have coatings on it. It may also not be pure copper. That’s as much as I can tell you.
We’ve seen that happen a couple of times, actually in my pool once. Just run your filter a little longer. If it doesn’t clear up, add a little chlorine. Should do the trick.
Hi Murray,
I just ordered one Remington Solar Shock unit and am very excited to get it going.
Question 1. – What needs to be done to sanitize the pool water and ensure its safe from bacteria, virus, or pathogens that can be harmful to humans?
Question 2. – Does the use of this copper ionizer in the pool turn blonde hair green, or have other non-disclosed side effects?
Question 3. – I have a small 7,500 gal fiberglass shell pool in Reno NV., a lot of leaves and blowing dust get into the pool, any other recommendations that I should be considering?
1. Keep a little floaty of chlorine tabs. That should sanitize enough. (Sun Shock also has silver in the anode which also kills pathogens, fyi)
2. Good question. No. That is a myth. Chlorine will actually turn your hair green long before copper, believe it or not.
3. We have a new product coming out, SolaSkimmer, which can help you with those leaves and dust. The ionizer won’t really have an effect on those issues.
Please feel free to contact support@remingtonsolar.com with any additional questions.
I am considering using your Sun Shock pool purifier. However I have a gas pool heater with copper heating elements – could the Sun Shock effect the heater?
Not the first time we’ve been asked this question. You won’t have a problem at all. The electric part and the copper part need to be about 1/2 inch away to actually ionize. Your copper piping is a long distance from the ionizer, so you’re fine.
I put this ionizer in my pool about a week ago. Within two days the water was clear.. I have a 10,000 gal pool. I went to the pool store to pickup a item and the lady there said they sell chemicals with their ionizers something about the ph. I have read all of your manual and it said nothing else is needed.
We have to fight with pool supply stores constantly! In our experience, pH is no longer very important. Assuming your pH is normal for your local water, you shouldn’t need to put any other chemical in your pool. Especially do NOT use cyanuric acid. I’m sure she told you that, but it will create purple (temporary) stains.
Replaced the nylon wing nut with a stainless steel bolt to hold the screen on. After some common sense thought I figured
this unit is not working properly with the bolt. Put the nylon wing nut back in. Now I am not so sure the unit is working like
it should. Could I have shorted out the solar charger by putting the bolt in the unit? Harold in fl. I will try the unit in a glass
of water to see if it starts to make bubbles or whatever
I sort of slacked on cleaning the anode during the winter. When I scraped it a couple of chunks came out. It is only 8 months old so the copper thing is still pretty thick. Will it matter that a few chunks of copper came off. I have actually ordered a new anode from Costco so changing it out isn’t a problem but if that one is still working Inwill wait until it is smaller. Thanks for your help. We love this thing. We always had problems with mustard colored algae. Not now. We just keep a couple of tablets in a floater basket. Done deal!
Pamela
Best to put on a pair of rubber gloves. Unscrew it from unit. Use the enclosed wire brush (or you can use steel wool) and scrub it a bit under the hose. That’s it.
I’ve had my solar pool floater for several months now. It is winter here in northern CA. No swimming but my pool has remained beautiful and clear. When we have heavy rain as recently I have to pump the water out to prevent overfilling. This is the first winter my pool has remained so clear and clean. I clean the anode once a week in my sink by running water over it and replace. use 2 3 inch tablets of chlorine in my floater. Great product wish I had found this years ago.
Love my sun shock. I found that the colors on the test strip container are not accurate but if I compare a dipped strip to an unused one the reading is much more accurate. I am in Scottsdale so we do not use our pool during the winter and do not park it. However with the cool water there is no need to keep the unit in the water. I have not had it in the pool for 3 months and the copper level is still satisfactory
I was turned onto this product today and am still looking for that red flag which discounts this product. I spend so much money on chemicals that if I could find a product to lower those costs it would be great. with that said here are my questions.
Pool Specs
44000 gallons
pebbleteh finish
9 foot deep end
variable speed pump
sand filter
1. Can I completely stop using products like phos free, perfect weekly, cyaneric acid, and chlorine? Does this product eliminate the need for any chemicals?
2. Do I still have to drain my pool due to the dissolved solid count going to high?
3. What are the rules for running the pool pump? how long and how high of an RPM?
1. Yes, but you’ll need 2 (one per 22,000 gallons). Especially, do NOT us cyanuric acid. It can cause purple stains.
2. No.
3. You’ll run it about 1/2 as much as before. Same RPM.
Welcome to our world. You won’t believe it.
WAS USING IT FOR THE PAST 8 MONTHS, JUST CHECKED MY COPPER LEVEL AND IT’S WELL ABOVE 1.3
ALSO, FIRST TIME FOR THE DURATION OF USE NOTICED YELLOW ALGAE APPEARS. WHAT SHOULD I DO?
Nah. Just leave it in your pool and you should be fine. (Unless you have this in a hot tub or very small pool, say less than 5,000 gallons. Then I would go ahead and remove it.)
I have the sun shock working correctly, for months now but rigth now all the plastic on the vacumm feel like they have alage, can i put a chlorine shock with the sun shock on the pool?
Murrey, the frog system uses a mineral pack and a chlorine cartidge, the system is designed to run at .5 chlorine and the mineral pac has water softners and anti algecides in it. I am worried about the unit being in conflict with the mineral pac
First of all I love this unit, it’s kept our pool very clear for the second half of summer this year. My question is about anode deterioration. Does the anode keep working until it’s completely gone? I would just like to know when it needs to be replaced to maintain the same level of effectiveness.
Technically no, you shouldn’t have a problem. However, be aware that some stabilizers contain cyanuric acid, which can react with copper ions and create a purple stain. If you notice purple stains, you may want to stop using stabilizers. (You shouldn’t have to be using chlorine with stabilizers anyway at this point).
Sun Shock can reduce your calcium levels, but it’s typically not a real game changer for your water quality. We’ve heard of some pool supply companies saying you want calcium in your water for your plaster, but calcium is not necessary for water quality if you want pure water. It should not be an issue.
Black algae can be tricky. Yes, we’ve nailed most other algaes just fine. I’ve even seen black algae show up in my pool. I typically spot treat those with a little chemical chlorine and they tend to disappear quickly. The Sun Shock will tend to control the black algae as well, but you will need to be patient.
We have gotten many reports of yellow (mustard) algae disappearing like magic. The black algae can show up periodically, but that can be treated with a bit of chemical chlorine. The copper from your Sun Shock should inhibit the growth of the black algae as well.
Hello; do i need to add acid to keep the pool ph balanced? also, if i do not have any more algae, do i need to do anymore water chemistry testing? finally, while there seems to be no algae, the copper reading in the pool is still 0.1- any idea why?
It’s possible the test strips are not accurately reading copper levels. This can be due to other minerals and chemicals in your water. The best “test strip”, we believe, is your pool itself. Just leave your Sun Shock in the water with as pure a water as possible. If you have to adjust the pH a bit, you can do so with acid, but even then, we recommend doing nothing.
Love, love, LOVE! My sun shock unit is working to perfection!!! Absolute miracle! (All I want now is a solar vacuum, lol!) But truly, it is a miracle. The only issue is that I am unsure the strips are working since my copper level never goes past the 2nd color on the strip. I live in Southern CA and it’s been hot and sunny for the last month and a half but the reading stays the same… What could be the deal? Thanks again for your product. It truly is marvelous!!!
Honestly, you best “test strip” is your pool. As mentioned on other posts, the copper test strips can be affected by other minerals or chemicals. If your pool water stays clear, as it should using Sun Shock, then it’s working properly. If your pool turns green or gets algae, then contact us immediately at support@remingtonsolar.com.
I used the chlorine free sun shock for about 6 weeks until my ion reading became a bit high. I then removed the unit for about a week and developed some algae due to strong rains and sun in S. Florida. The black algae that is now spreading. I am running my pump 24 hours, brushed my pool and cleaned my filter. What should I do now as it appears that the black algae is spreading and my ion level is reading .5ppm?
Try leaving the Sun Shock in the pool. Sprinkle a bit of chlorine on your black algae, and wait a few days for the black algae to disappear. You may have to chemically shock a couple of times throughout the summer, but do it sparingly. Nurse the water back to normal, but don’t add any chemicals to your pool if possible.
How do i go about using my warrant unfortunately i screwed on the plastic wing nut on to tight and it broke inside the copper tube, disabling the filter so it wont stay atrached to the unit
I installed Sun Shock on 7/25. Have tested for cu ions twice now (8/1 & 8/8). Test strip indicates <0.1). Pool is ~16,000 gallon gunite/pebble sheen. When can I expect to see indication of cu ions? Pool is crystal clear.
Actually, your pool is your best “test strip”. Copper levels should be increasing, but if there are other minerals or chemicals in your water (even naturally), then it can affect your test strip reading. Just leave Sun Shock in your pool and enjoy your clean water. But let us know at support@remingtonsolar.com if you have any problems.
Hi, put in the solar donut a few weeks ago in my 10,000 gallon pool. I keep wanting to add chlorine because of all the algae problems I have had. Last week I only put in 1/3 gallon and the amount barely registers. So far no algae. My copper reads .9 – is that where it should be?
I just purchased a unit and placed it in the pool today, so I need some time to see how it performs. I get plenty of sun light here in Arizona , so I know it will get plenty of solar energy. Problem: we run our filter at night because off peak power rates are 75% lower. If the unit runs during the day when the filter is off, will the copper ions be properly distributed at night when the filter comes on?
Yes! You do NOT want to use cyanuric acid. (Cyanuric now exists as a stabilizer is some chlorine tabs. Try to buy the chlorine tabs without stabilizers)
We have an 11,000 gallon pool and just purchased one of the solar chorline units. We have extremely hard water in our area and even though I keep my ph and alkalinity balanced I have some calcium build up. I bought some scale tech to use but I want to know hiw the chemical will affect the solar unit and do I take the unit out if I have to treat the water? Thank you.
Not sure how the calcium removal chemicals will be affected by Sun Shock. However, we suggest not using any other chemicals in your pool with Sun Shock. We know it works great in pure H2O.
I bought the Chlorine-Free Sun Shock Pool Purifier about a two months ago, the water has been crystal clear until now. Now I have a white water pool mold growing, does this product only treat algae?
I just received my sun shock today. I just had my 19,000 gallon pool installed a week ago. My pool man said not to use algaecide because it would ruin my pump filters. As I was reading the Remington manual I saw that this generates algaecide. Do you think it would be harmful to my filters?
I’ve had two ionizers in the pool now for over a month, and my pool keeps getting algae and is often cloudy. Am I doing something wrong? It’s driving me nuts after all the great things I’ve read.
I put device in my gunite salt water pool a few days ago.. Yesterday I noticed a bunch of what look like ‘slime’ (cloud containing lots of particles) around the device so I went to take it out to clean it and all this slime dispersed into the pool.. Is that normal? When cleaning the basket was not that dirty… Thanks
1. Yes, definitely
2. Great question. Don’t know. If anything, probably not. The water is more natural now. However, mosquitoes typically do not breed in pools, only stagnant water.
DON’T PUT ANY CHLORINE IN YOUR POOL! Your pool store won’t understand what you’re doing. They want you to use chlorine. Your new chlorine reading is SUPPOSED to be zero. That’s the whole idea!
My Ionizer continues to float to the skimmer on the shaded side of the pool. The instructions say that I can anchor it in the sun, but I’m not exactly sure how to accomplish that & if it’s ok to tie a rope around the plastic basket on the bottom of the unit. The pool has a spa that is always in the direct sunlight & the spa circulates the same water as the pool. If I place the Ionizer in the spa, will it work for the entire pool? (Pool is 25,000 gal.) Thanks!
First of all, if you have a 25,000 gallon pool, you really need 2 Sun Shocks. (You can try with one, but be prepared to get another). To answer your question, you can tie a string around the coil, or around the entire anode and anchor it on the side. It’s super simple and easy.
We get asked that a lot. If your screened in porch is cutting the UV rays by 50%, then it will be 50% effective. Actually, we would expect it to still work, but be patient with it.
10 days after placing solar shock into pool. First test strip is 0.9. Husband misplaced the user manual that came with it so I have no clue what level I am to achieve. Cannot find a user guide to download on here. Anyone??
I’m guessing your unit is defective. Contact support@remingtonsolar.com for troubleshooting and/or replacement. We guarantee these things, so let us know!
Well, does it matter? Typically pH controls algae, and now your Sun Shock is controlling algae. So actually, it’s not as important anymore. We suggest you not put anything else in your pool.
Does your product work if you have a solar cover on your pool ? I am very interested in purchasing 1 if it will work with the solar cover on . Thank you , Mitch H ,
I purchased 2 of these about 1 week ago for a 60,000 gallon pool after ready some really good reviews. I put 1 in the pool and left for about 3 days. It had accumulated a lot of stuff around the Anode which I cleaned. I checked the water and it’s still on the low side. It appears to be doing the job so far but only time will tell.
Do you sell replacement parts other than the Anode for this product such as nylon basket, plastic butterfly screw and cooper level test strips?
Hi Roxanne. Thanks for your call today. I think we figured it all out. To reiterate, just shock your pool with chlorine once, then put in Sun Shock. Then don’t add anything (except maybe a floaty with one or two chlorine tablets). That’s it! Call us if any algae shows up.
I have not found anywhere that parts other than the copper rod can be purchased. Nothing on a replacement basket, coil, wingnut and most of all the test strips.
Also what should the chemistry readings be for a pool with high calcium and phosphate readings before installing the unit.
First I want to tell you that I am very satisfied with the Chlorine-Free Sun Shock Pool Ionizer, it´s work so good!. I wish to make forecasts and acquire the Copper Alloy “Anode”, the nylon basket and the plastic butterfly screw as well as the cooper level test strips . Can you help on that? thanks in advance!
I’ve been looking for swimming pool ionizer and I couldn’t find any and then Hop! I found two!.
I know ionizer how it works and that’s why I was looking for it. The other I found is using copper & silver to fight algae and disifecting the water as well.
May I ask you why you choose to use copper only? In anycase I wish to buy it and can you ship to Europe?
Message:I just wanted to give some feedback on the Chlorine Free Sun Shock Ionizer. When it works, it works great. However, it has major design flaws and I think you should seriously take a look at making improvements. This item has costed me more $, not saved me because I’ve had to spend extra money on algae killer and more shock. First, you can’t see inside the mesh cage. Instead of it being plastic solid blue, please make future ones clear like a glass. That way you can see if the spring is bent and touching the copper rod. Each time I clean it and take it apart, I’m wasting time and worrying and guessing if its touching or not. Sometimes I get it on right and sometimes the spring touches the rod with me only finding out later due to algae that it wasn’t working for days when I thought it was. Also, please put a light or an indictator on the apparatus if it’s actually “on” or not. Putting it in water in a bowl and seeing if bubbles come out is time consuming and still doesn’t tell you if its working. I love the idea of this item and would tell all my neighbors and friends with pools to get it if you improved on these two flaws. Otherwise, back to the drawing board and using weekly shock.
Thanks
dave
Hi David,
Thank you for your comments. The Sun Shock, as you describe, does work. However, your suggestions are understandable. We have looked how to minimize confusion on how the Sun Shock works, and if the copper and the coil touch…it will not work. The basket, with the groove in the bottom, is designed to seat the coil against it to act as a natural separator. When the basket is on, it is difficult to see that separation.
However, one thing that we have not made clear, is that you can pull on the coil to stretch it out a bit if it’s too short. If it does not naturally seat against the bottom of the basket, then it may not work properly…and if it’s too short, it may be difficult to tell if it’s actually separated.
I would suggest that during cleaning, you stretch out the coil (don’t break it, just pull it out so it stretches about an extra 1/2 inch). You may even hold the base of the coil (near the disk) and adjust it so it is more in line with the copper.
If you can stretch out the coil a bit, it will be much more obvious to feel that the coil is embedded in the basket. Then it should work fine.
The light idea is a nice idea, but it would add considerable expense to the unit. $129 is a very reasonable expectation for consumers if it’s doing what it’s supposed to do.
Have an above-ground pool? Have a below-ground pool? Tired of putting chemicals in your pool? Let’s discuss!
The rubber bushing should be there. We added it to later models. Just screw the anode to make this snug. Not too tight. You should be fine.
Not sure how big your fountain is, but if it’s less than 22,000 gallons, then absolutely, no more algae.
Newbie to all things that is pool. Got intrigued by the Ionizer and own one now. We run 3-5 chlorine tablets a week through the chlorinator, shock the pool once a week and add Diatomite filter to the skimmer every week.
With Ionizer now in place, do I still need to add the Diatomite filter? Also, can I stop feeding chlorine tablets to the chlorinator? I understand the spot shocking on an as needed basis.
Thanks
You can stop putting chlorine tabs in your chlorinator. However, you should keep a couple of tabs in your floaty. Not sure about the diametrious earth process. You will still have to manage your filtration system as you normally do.
My wing screw sheared off in the copper rod. I only had my unit for a month. Each time I disassemble to clean the screw is increasingly more difficult to install. It will go half way on and then stop turning. the blue cover is still flopping around at that point. Is there a way to keep this from happening.
You can put a little oil or lubrication on the screw and it should not break off.
We love how clean our pool is but we inadvertently squirt gunned some water into the garden beds and on some tree leaves and they don’t look so hot. Is that a thing?
Ha. No. Wasn’t because of the copper ionizer water. We’re quite sure of that.
Within 2 days of installing the device my pool never looked so clean, clear and inviting. And yes clor tab usage cut by 75%. I use more on my toilets than in the pool.
Thank you for the feedback, I guess! 😉
I use Clorox MaxxBlue 6-1 Chlorine Tablets in my floater – are these compatible with the Sun Shock? From reading here, it appears that you don’t want to use Algaecide with the Sun Shock, would these be ok in my floater?
Technically, you should be ok. But some chlorine uses cyanuric acid as a filler and stabilizer. Sun Shock (like any copper ionizer) doesn’t do well with cyanuric acid. It can cause purple stains. The stains will dissipate, but no one likes purple stains, so go easy at first with MaxxBlue.
Good question. You don’t need to test for anything. pH levels are primarily designed to control algae…which now is no longer an issue. However, do NOT use cyanuric acid or any other stabilizers or chemicals with this product.
Not an issue. No conflicts.
Your assumptions are correct.
Don’t put any acids in your pool. Nothing, except a small floaty of chlorine. If you have additional questions, please contact support@remingtonsolar.com
Cyanuric acid. Don’t use Sun Shock if you have high concentrations. It will dissipate, so don’t worry. Jack’s Magic Blue Stuff will remove it if you have bad stains.
Thanks for the feedback, Rick! The only “issues” we see relating to algae is the black algae. It seems to come in strong with very high copper levels. Just spot treat (or shock) with some powdered chlorine, and it should clear up immediately. That’s why we say Sun Shock will cut your chlorine use by 85%+ (not 100%)
Thank you for the question. Ideally, you only want to use Sun Shock in pure water. No other chemicals. However, you definitely want to keep a small floaty of a couple of chlorine tabs. (The manual should be clear about this). You don’t want to run chlorine through your chlorinator anymore. If you get a hard dirty rain and your pool greens up, then you can shock with chlorine powder, but let that dissipate and keep using your Sun Shock without adding additional powered chlorine.
It’s fine, as long as your pool is clear. Reading should be .1-.5. But even then, higher copper readings won’t hurt you. (We personally don’t like the copper test strips because readings can be thrown off by minerals and chemicals in your pool. Just watch for green water.)
You can keep using salt if you wish, but definitely turn down the chlorinator.
Good question. No, you shouldn’t have to drain your pool if you can clean up to begin with, with chemicals and filtering.
Old photo. New anodes do not have the black piece.
Great question. I would expect the unit itself to last 2-3 seasons with normal usage. Some people like to buy a new one each year. Others like to baby theirs and maximize the life of the unit.
The well water with additional minerals could be the problem. Do you have other chemicals (acids?) in the pool at the time of install? Contact support@remingtonsolar.com for specific help.
Will this have any affect on water skimmer bugs? I’ve been using your product and my water looks great but we have these pesky bugs in our pool. Can I add muriatic acid?
Should not affect any wildlife at all.
Just received my Sun Shock. I don’t know what the level the copper should be at. There are strips, but I could not find the correct concentration.
Anywhere on the lower end (.1-.5) should be fine. Contact support@remingtonsolar.com if you have specific questions, however, sometimes the strips are not as accurate for copper testing due to environmental factors. Actually, I would not worry so much about the test strips. Put your Sun Shock in the water, and let us know if your pool turns green. It should be fine.
This past week both the coils and the copper rod have developed a black coating on it. It is usually covered with white material that flakes and collects in the basket. The only thing I added was a couple of chlorine tablets earlier in the week. Have added tablets before with no change in the color to the coils and the copper. Is this normal?
Totally normal. Your Sun Shock is working great. Some folks are surprised when they see discoloration and residue on the copper anode. This is the ionization process doing its job. You may even have minerals in the water that are being broken apart due to the ionization process. You may get some crazy colors! This is normal…and a good thing.
I have a solar sun shock in my 18,000 galon pool and when I tested the water, it read that there was no chlorine, about 30 alkalinity (should usually be 80-100), and the pH level was extremely low. Do i need to add anything or is this normal?
That’s the whole idea! You don’t want or need chlorine. Your chlorine levels will be zero. (It will drive your pool guy crazy.) Interestingly, you don’t need to worry about pH either. Welcome to our world!
Need neutral pH for swimming, right?
It doesn’t matter. With Sun Shock, it doesn’t matter what your pool pH is anymore.
I’m about to move into a house with a pool. If I use this and do a regular test kit will my numbers be all out of wack? Or would I still be shooting for the same numbers?
Great question. To use your words, it will be out of whack. Your pH will not be as important since pH manages algae growth. However, you are now using Sun Shock, so your algae should be under control.
I had your product for almost a year, I can tell It was amazing. But couple weeks ago I saw some black algae and start spread too fast. I test with the test provided test strip, and color was darker than 2.0 on the scale color. Does the copper ionized (metallic) too high cause this black algae (as some pool forum were mentioned) ? should I take the solar out when it reach 0.3 – 0.5 ?
Please advice
That can happen. (I’ve seen black algae in my pool occasionally). Simply spot treat with a bit of powdered chlorine, or shock with chlorine to get rid of it. It should go away instantly. This is one reason we say that you will use 85% less chlorine, not 100%. Occasionally, you’ll have to treat with shock, but not very often.
Maybe take it out for a day or two to lower down Cooper lever since it could stain the pool surface?
Just leave it in if your pool is bigger than 800 gallons.
How long does it take for the copper to build up in an 18,000 gallon pool? Also, if I can figure out a way to measure the voltage between the copper anode and the coil, what should the voltage be in full sunlight?
A week. Voltage is very low. Just enough to pull copper off the anode very slowly.
You absolutely should NOT have any mustard algae in your pool. Try this: 1. Shock with chlorine and get your pool clear. 2. Make sure your Sun Shock is in the sun at least 4-5 hours per day. (You can check to make sure your Sun Shock is ionizing by putting the bottom, without the basket, and make sure the sun is shining on it. You will see a “mist” or small bubbles coming from the coils. That means copper is going into your pool As long as your pool is 22,000 gallons or less, you will not have algae in your pool. If you do not see a mist or bubbles, contact support@remingtonsolar.com.
So I have a 24′ round above ground pool. We fill with river water. Last year I struggled with yellow algee. While I was able to overcome it. Every time I vacuumed my pool the water was cloudy for a few days. Uggh.
I have had my sunshock in my pool for just a week (purchased @ Home Depot) WOW!
Crystal clear. No burning eyes and very little algee. The most amazing thing was even after vacuuming (after just 5 days) the water stayed Crystal clear!
I do have a chlorine tablet
floater still on pool as directed.
Now my question. Do I still need to “shock” my pool once a week?
My initial thought is no. But sure would like confirmation.
So far I LOVE THIS PRODUCT!
Just give your Sun Shock a little scrub every week or two, and you should be good. A little chlorine tab in the floaty is all you need. No shocking needed unless you get tons of rainwater and it turns green for some reason. Otherwise, leave it alone!
Will it kill fish in 10,000 gallon pool , how long after taking the cope out before it goes away
No. They’ll be just fine.
Hi and thanks in advance! I bought 2 solar ionizers one for my vinyl liner pool (30,000 gal) and one for my mom’s gunnite pool ( 18,000). I did have some algae growth in mine last year when the water temp went up. I did order an additional one for this season. When I opened the pool I took a water sample to the pool store and they said I needed to drain my pool because the copper level was really high. I figured it was from the ionizer and did not drain the pool. I’m hoping the additional ionizer will completely eliminate the need for chlorine this season. The question I have is with my mom’s pool. We live in PA. When there is a heavy rain her water turns brown. Could there be some chemical reaction going on? Thanks.
Don’t drain the water. The copper is because of the ionizer. That’s a good thing. Your pool supply store is not familiar with these, and we hear conflicting information occasionally. If the water turns brown after a rain, add a little chlorine shock and see if it clears up. Usually, there should be enough copper in the pool to prevent this from happening, but it sometimes happens after a big rain. That’s why we say “use up to 85% less chlorine”, not 100%.
The wing nutt broke off and part is still in metal thing..how do I fix..o my used for a month last summer before pool was down for season
contact support@remingtonsolar.com
Can I use it in a pond? We have just few fish and todds there. I do not see why not, but want to get your opinion
Yes, however, you need to do your own research. We will not be liable for fish. All of our research (and experience) says these are safe for fish, but please do your own research.
Can this solar unit be used in a salt water pool?
Yes, just turn your chlorinator down.
I have had my solar shock in a few days. When I picked it up today to look at it, ALOT of black specs fell out of it and into the water. I was just wondering what this could be?
That is normal. The basket should pick up most of that, but it will filter out easily enough. It is simply metallic residue from the ionization process. There are minerals in your water that are breaking apart due to the ionization process, and that residue will accumulate on the anode. This is perfectly normal and means your Sun Shock is working fine.
I’ve had a Chlorine Free Sun Shock Ionizer for about a year and a half in my pool. I struggled for years fighting algae, spending a fortune on chemicals, scrubbing multiple times a week, I was ready to drain the pool until I found the Sun Shock. It completely cleared up my algae and the pool has looked great. My question is I’ve change the copper rod about three months ago and all was working well. I’ve recently started getting algae back in the pool. I cleaned the copper rod today and there was very little build up on the rod. Is there a way to tell if the solar panel is generating current to the rod?
Thanks,
Brian – California
Yes, definitely. Remove the basket and put the rod in a glass of water (while attached to the main unit, of course). Make sure it’s in direct sun. Look for tiny bubbles or a “mist” coming from the coils. contact support@remingtonsolar.com if you have further questions.
Can I use algaecide with the Sun Shoock?
No.
If my pool is indoors with glass ceiling is it posible that I charge it outside and then put it in the pool indoors?
Liz
There is nothing to “charge”. There are no batteries. If you have sun on the Sun Shock, then it will work. If not, it won’t.
My pool is all marble and it’s indoors. The sun it gets is thru the ceiling glass could this be something that it would work for me? It’s two stories deep and the lowest part is 5’6″ so I can’t touch bottom and I thin should be like 45 ft
I want to protect the marble because I see with the Florine the marble is getting rough it is not smooth anymore
Thank you
Liz
Sun = will work. No sun = will not work. Should work through glass windows as long as it gets direct sunlight.
We just purchased this product and I was reading the manual where it states not to use this in conjunction with cyanuric acid. Since we have a chlorine pool, we have cya in there as well already at a level of 85 ppm. Can we go ahead and use this and avoid purple stains, or is that level of cya going to cause purple stains.
Honestly, I wouldn’t risk it. You can’t use this with cyanuric acid.
What is the max copper level I should be at?
Actually, you don’t have to worry about “maximum copper”. It won’t hurt you. However, some black algae can build up with super high copper levels. Just treat with a little powdered chlorine and you should be fine.
I have a 30K gallon pool as well. Just ordered one. Did one ionizer handle the job or did you end up getting two?
I just got my ionizer. I read the manual online. My container of copper strips doesn’t say what the ideal should be, nor does the manual. In addition, the increment are 0.1 and higher. I notice someone in a previous comment stated their readings were 0.03. Can you tell me what copper readings I should watch for, ideal and too much?
Here’s the deal. The lower end of the scale (.1-.5) is fine. But even higher copper amounts won’t hurt anything. Sometimes black algae can thrive in higher copper, so if your copper reading goes way up, just remove the Sun Shock from the pool for a few weeks.
I used it all summer last year and my water has never been clearer. I love it. The question I have is how often do i need to replace to copper rod? I use is for about 3 months in the summer.
I recently purchased the solar shock and is working as advertised. My only concern is the 0 chlorine. I would think you have to use some so to kill any bacteria and so forth. We have a lot of neighborhood kids that swim in our pool and more than likely pee in our pool. I have seen several times that you should use 80% less chlorine. Is there and actual amount that is recommended to keep the water sanitized. It is sorta hard to read if the levels are good if the test strips say 0. Thanks in advance for your response. Jimmy
Just keep a small floaty with a couple of chlorine tabs in it. That should be enough to sanitize.
Yes, but remember, try using as little chemical as possible. Sun Shock should reduce your dependency on chlorine or bromine (or other pH balancers, chemicals, etc) by 85%+.
Great question. We use an alloy of copper and silver. The silver is effective on microbes and sanitization. Our anode is also designed to degrade over time. Not sure if Loews or Home Depot have solid copper, but they may have coatings on it. It may also not be pure copper. That’s as much as I can tell you.
I actually used it in my hot tub and rarely had to put chlorine in it. Works fine.
We’ve seen that happen a couple of times, actually in my pool once. Just run your filter a little longer. If it doesn’t clear up, add a little chlorine. Should do the trick.
Hi Murray,
I just ordered one Remington Solar Shock unit and am very excited to get it going.
Question 1. – What needs to be done to sanitize the pool water and ensure its safe from bacteria, virus, or pathogens that can be harmful to humans?
Question 2. – Does the use of this copper ionizer in the pool turn blonde hair green, or have other non-disclosed side effects?
Question 3. – I have a small 7,500 gal fiberglass shell pool in Reno NV., a lot of leaves and blowing dust get into the pool, any other recommendations that I should be considering?
1. Keep a little floaty of chlorine tabs. That should sanitize enough. (Sun Shock also has silver in the anode which also kills pathogens, fyi)
2. Good question. No. That is a myth. Chlorine will actually turn your hair green long before copper, believe it or not.
3. We have a new product coming out, SolaSkimmer, which can help you with those leaves and dust. The ionizer won’t really have an effect on those issues.
Please feel free to contact support@remingtonsolar.com with any additional questions.
I am considering using your Sun Shock pool purifier. However I have a gas pool heater with copper heating elements – could the Sun Shock effect the heater?
Not the first time we’ve been asked this question. You won’t have a problem at all. The electric part and the copper part need to be about 1/2 inch away to actually ionize. Your copper piping is a long distance from the ionizer, so you’re fine.
Can I use this in a 9x16x5 foot Riverpool ( A small exercise pool with a metal motor on one end to create a current to swim against)?
Yes, but make sure it gets in the sun.
I put this ionizer in my pool about a week ago. Within two days the water was clear.. I have a 10,000 gal pool. I went to the pool store to pickup a item and the lady there said they sell chemicals with their ionizers something about the ph. I have read all of your manual and it said nothing else is needed.
We have to fight with pool supply stores constantly! In our experience, pH is no longer very important. Assuming your pH is normal for your local water, you shouldn’t need to put any other chemical in your pool. Especially do NOT use cyanuric acid. I’m sure she told you that, but it will create purple (temporary) stains.
Replaced the nylon wing nut with a stainless steel bolt to hold the screen on. After some common sense thought I figured
this unit is not working properly with the bolt. Put the nylon wing nut back in. Now I am not so sure the unit is working like
it should. Could I have shorted out the solar charger by putting the bolt in the unit? Harold in fl. I will try the unit in a glass
of water to see if it starts to make bubbles or whatever
Yeah, you can’t use metal. That’s why we use nylon. We’re not trying to be cheap, you just can’t use metal. Try the bubble test and let us know.
I sort of slacked on cleaning the anode during the winter. When I scraped it a couple of chunks came out. It is only 8 months old so the copper thing is still pretty thick. Will it matter that a few chunks of copper came off. I have actually ordered a new anode from Costco so changing it out isn’t a problem but if that one is still working Inwill wait until it is smaller. Thanks for your help. We love this thing. We always had problems with mustard colored algae. Not now. We just keep a couple of tablets in a floater basket. Done deal!
Pamela
If your existing anode is still hanging in there, you can use it. We recommend your replacing it when it gets to be size of a fat pencil.
How do I clean the anode
Best to put on a pair of rubber gloves. Unscrew it from unit. Use the enclosed wire brush (or you can use steel wool) and scrub it a bit under the hose. That’s it.
I’ve had my solar pool floater for several months now. It is winter here in northern CA. No swimming but my pool has remained beautiful and clear. When we have heavy rain as recently I have to pump the water out to prevent overfilling. This is the first winter my pool has remained so clear and clean. I clean the anode once a week in my sink by running water over it and replace. use 2 3 inch tablets of chlorine in my floater. Great product wish I had found this years ago.
Love my sun shock. I found that the colors on the test strip container are not accurate but if I compare a dipped strip to an unused one the reading is much more accurate. I am in Scottsdale so we do not use our pool during the winter and do not park it. However with the cool water there is no need to keep the unit in the water. I have not had it in the pool for 3 months and the copper level is still satisfactory
Need a new basket. Can it be purchased separatey?
Yes. https://remingtonsolar.com/products/replacement-basket/
I was turned onto this product today and am still looking for that red flag which discounts this product. I spend so much money on chemicals that if I could find a product to lower those costs it would be great. with that said here are my questions.
Pool Specs
44000 gallons
pebbleteh finish
9 foot deep end
variable speed pump
sand filter
1. Can I completely stop using products like phos free, perfect weekly, cyaneric acid, and chlorine? Does this product eliminate the need for any chemicals?
2. Do I still have to drain my pool due to the dissolved solid count going to high?
3. What are the rules for running the pool pump? how long and how high of an RPM?
thanks
1. Yes, but you’ll need 2 (one per 22,000 gallons). Especially, do NOT us cyanuric acid. It can cause purple stains.
2. No.
3. You’ll run it about 1/2 as much as before. Same RPM.
Welcome to our world. You won’t believe it.
WAS USING IT FOR THE PAST 8 MONTHS, JUST CHECKED MY COPPER LEVEL AND IT’S WELL ABOVE 1.3
ALSO, FIRST TIME FOR THE DURATION OF USE NOTICED YELLOW ALGAE APPEARS. WHAT SHOULD I DO?
Wonder if it’s working. Contact support@remingtonsolar.com
Nah. Just leave it in your pool and you should be fine. (Unless you have this in a hot tub or very small pool, say less than 5,000 gallons. Then I would go ahead and remove it.)
I have the sun shock working correctly, for months now but rigth now all the plastic on the vacumm feel like they have alage, can i put a chlorine shock with the sun shock on the pool?
Yes.
Murrey, the frog system uses a mineral pack and a chlorine cartidge, the system is designed to run at .5 chlorine and the mineral pac has water softners and anti algecides in it. I am worried about the unit being in conflict with the mineral pac
Shouldn’t be an issue.
First of all I love this unit, it’s kept our pool very clear for the second half of summer this year. My question is about anode deterioration. Does the anode keep working until it’s completely gone? I would just like to know when it needs to be replaced to maintain the same level of effectiveness.
Thanks, M
Replace when your copper stick is about the size of a fat pencil…or you can simply replace annually.
Getting ready to close pool for the winter. What is the proper procedure for closing?
Remove the Sun Shock from your pool, and store upside down (so the sun is not shining on the panel).
My pool has a stabilizer in and is a little high will this hinder the working of the Rem Solar Clorinenator ??
Technically no, you shouldn’t have a problem. However, be aware that some stabilizers contain cyanuric acid, which can react with copper ions and create a purple stain. If you notice purple stains, you may want to stop using stabilizers. (You shouldn’t have to be using chlorine with stabilizers anyway at this point).
I would just leave Sun Shock in your pool and let your pool be your test strip. Even with excessive copper levels, you should be fine.
Sun Shock can reduce your calcium levels, but it’s typically not a real game changer for your water quality. We’ve heard of some pool supply companies saying you want calcium in your water for your plaster, but calcium is not necessary for water quality if you want pure water. It should not be an issue.
Black algae can be tricky. Yes, we’ve nailed most other algaes just fine. I’ve even seen black algae show up in my pool. I typically spot treat those with a little chemical chlorine and they tend to disappear quickly. The Sun Shock will tend to control the black algae as well, but you will need to be patient.
We have gotten many reports of yellow (mustard) algae disappearing like magic. The black algae can show up periodically, but that can be treated with a bit of chemical chlorine. The copper from your Sun Shock should inhibit the growth of the black algae as well.
You can try with one, but don’t get mad if it doesn’t work. You’re right on the edge of specs, so try one, then consider another.
Can I run the solar pool ionozer and purifier in a pool that uses the frogger system?
Well, I don’t know what a Frogger system is. Please contact support@remingtonsolar.com with more details.
Hello; do i need to add acid to keep the pool ph balanced? also, if i do not have any more algae, do i need to do anymore water chemistry testing? finally, while there seems to be no algae, the copper reading in the pool is still 0.1- any idea why?
It’s possible the test strips are not accurately reading copper levels. This can be due to other minerals and chemicals in your water. The best “test strip”, we believe, is your pool itself. Just leave your Sun Shock in the water with as pure a water as possible. If you have to adjust the pH a bit, you can do so with acid, but even then, we recommend doing nothing.
Love, love, LOVE! My sun shock unit is working to perfection!!! Absolute miracle! (All I want now is a solar vacuum, lol!) But truly, it is a miracle. The only issue is that I am unsure the strips are working since my copper level never goes past the 2nd color on the strip. I live in Southern CA and it’s been hot and sunny for the last month and a half but the reading stays the same… What could be the deal? Thanks again for your product. It truly is marvelous!!!
Honestly, you best “test strip” is your pool. As mentioned on other posts, the copper test strips can be affected by other minerals or chemicals. If your pool water stays clear, as it should using Sun Shock, then it’s working properly. If your pool turns green or gets algae, then contact us immediately at support@remingtonsolar.com.
I used the chlorine free sun shock for about 6 weeks until my ion reading became a bit high. I then removed the unit for about a week and developed some algae due to strong rains and sun in S. Florida. The black algae that is now spreading. I am running my pump 24 hours, brushed my pool and cleaned my filter. What should I do now as it appears that the black algae is spreading and my ion level is reading .5ppm?
Try leaving the Sun Shock in the pool. Sprinkle a bit of chlorine on your black algae, and wait a few days for the black algae to disappear. You may have to chemically shock a couple of times throughout the summer, but do it sparingly. Nurse the water back to normal, but don’t add any chemicals to your pool if possible.
How do i go about using my warrant unfortunately i screwed on the plastic wing nut on to tight and it broke inside the copper tube, disabling the filter so it wont stay atrached to the unit
Contact support@remingtonsolar.com
I installed Sun Shock on 7/25. Have tested for cu ions twice now (8/1 & 8/8). Test strip indicates <0.1). Pool is ~16,000 gallon gunite/pebble sheen. When can I expect to see indication of cu ions? Pool is crystal clear.
Actually, your pool is your best “test strip”. Copper levels should be increasing, but if there are other minerals or chemicals in your water (even naturally), then it can affect your test strip reading. Just leave Sun Shock in your pool and enjoy your clean water. But let us know at support@remingtonsolar.com if you have any problems.
Hi, put in the solar donut a few weeks ago in my 10,000 gallon pool. I keep wanting to add chlorine because of all the algae problems I have had. Last week I only put in 1/3 gallon and the amount barely registers. So far no algae. My copper reads .9 – is that where it should be?
Sounds like it’s working fine.
Do I need stabilizer? We were using liquid chlorine. Last water test showed very low stabilizer.
No. You do not need or want stabilizer.
Using the borax (boron) addition to the pool. Does this affect the xun shock product?
Best not to use anything, but a little borax is fine.
I just purchased a unit and placed it in the pool today, so I need some time to see how it performs. I get plenty of sun light here in Arizona , so I know it will get plenty of solar energy. Problem: we run our filter at night because off peak power rates are 75% lower. If the unit runs during the day when the filter is off, will the copper ions be properly distributed at night when the filter comes on?
You’ll be fine. Good question, though.
Does cyaneric acid levels affect the copper anode and copper levels?
Yes! You do NOT want to use cyanuric acid. (Cyanuric now exists as a stabilizer is some chlorine tabs. Try to buy the chlorine tabs without stabilizers)
We have an 11,000 gallon pool and just purchased one of the solar chorline units. We have extremely hard water in our area and even though I keep my ph and alkalinity balanced I have some calcium build up. I bought some scale tech to use but I want to know hiw the chemical will affect the solar unit and do I take the unit out if I have to treat the water? Thank you.
Not sure how the calcium removal chemicals will be affected by Sun Shock. However, we suggest not using any other chemicals in your pool with Sun Shock. We know it works great in pure H2O.
I have a salt water pool but my system its not working right can i use the Remington solar ?
Yes
I use bromine in my pool, will this product still be ok for my pool?
Sure, no problem.
with solar cover how much would I have to move it? How much circulation does it need?
I bought this chlorine free solar sun shock floatie about two months ago and I had a question, is the copper anode in the middle supposed to rust?
I bought the Chlorine-Free Sun Shock Pool Purifier about a two months ago, the water has been crystal clear until now. Now I have a white water pool mold growing, does this product only treat algae?
I just received my sun shock today. I just had my 19,000 gallon pool installed a week ago. My pool man said not to use algaecide because it would ruin my pump filters. As I was reading the Remington manual I saw that this generates algaecide. Do you think it would be harmful to my filters?
I’ve had two ionizers in the pool now for over a month, and my pool keeps getting algae and is often cloudy. Am I doing something wrong? It’s driving me nuts after all the great things I’ve read.
Will cyanuric acid levels lower eventually with this product? Or is the absolute only way to reduce by water replacement.
Thanks
I put device in my gunite salt water pool a few days ago.. Yesterday I noticed a bunch of what look like ‘slime’ (cloud containing lots of particles) around the device so I went to take it out to clean it and all this slime dispersed into the pool.. Is that normal? When cleaning the basket was not that dirty… Thanks
1. Yes, definitely
2. Great question. Don’t know. If anything, probably not. The water is more natural now. However, mosquitoes typically do not breed in pools, only stagnant water.
DON’T PUT ANY CHLORINE IN YOUR POOL! Your pool store won’t understand what you’re doing. They want you to use chlorine. Your new chlorine reading is SUPPOSED to be zero. That’s the whole idea!
My Ionizer continues to float to the skimmer on the shaded side of the pool. The instructions say that I can anchor it in the sun, but I’m not exactly sure how to accomplish that & if it’s ok to tie a rope around the plastic basket on the bottom of the unit. The pool has a spa that is always in the direct sunlight & the spa circulates the same water as the pool. If I place the Ionizer in the spa, will it work for the entire pool? (Pool is 25,000 gal.) Thanks!
First of all, if you have a 25,000 gallon pool, you really need 2 Sun Shocks. (You can try with one, but be prepared to get another). To answer your question, you can tie a string around the coil, or around the entire anode and anchor it on the side. It’s super simple and easy.
I live in Stuart, Fl and have a pool with a screen enclosure around it. I get lots of sun but wonder if your device will work in my pool.
We get asked that a lot. If your screened in porch is cutting the UV rays by 50%, then it will be 50% effective. Actually, we would expect it to still work, but be patient with it.
We just had a dark blue color plaster put in our pool. Does ionizing the water have an impact on colored plaster? Fades quicker…etc.
We have never heard of any fading or discoloring. We can’t swear it won’t happen, but there is no reason for it to.
The little white plastic bolt that hold the scree on broke, can I get another
Certainly. Just click right HERE.
10 days after placing solar shock into pool. First test strip is 0.9. Husband misplaced the user manual that came with it so I have no clue what level I am to achieve. Cannot find a user guide to download on here. Anyone??
I’m guessing your unit is defective. Contact support@remingtonsolar.com for troubleshooting and/or replacement. We guarantee these things, so let us know!
Contact support@remingtonsolar.com and we’ll get some out to you.
I am loving the fact that the ionizer has taken care of my algae but it is really driving my ph down. Ant suggestions? Thanks
Well, does it matter? Typically pH controls algae, and now your Sun Shock is controlling algae. So actually, it’s not as important anymore. We suggest you not put anything else in your pool.
Agreed.
Does your product work if you have a solar cover on your pool ? I am very interested in purchasing 1 if it will work with the solar cover on . Thank you , Mitch H ,
You have to be able to have the top in the sun. Some people cut holes or move the cover.
Hi!
We have a 480.000 Litre pool,
Will this device help us at all?
Or do we have to put 6-10 floating ionizers inside this size of pool?
is ist possible to get a pool ionizer wich isn’t floating in the pool but kills algae and bacteria in the filtre process?
Many thanks
Johannes
That’s a big pool. Conceivably you could use that many Sun Shocks, but seems like a commercial ionizer would be a better way to go.
I purchased 2 of these about 1 week ago for a 60,000 gallon pool after ready some really good reviews. I put 1 in the pool and left for about 3 days. It had accumulated a lot of stuff around the Anode which I cleaned. I checked the water and it’s still on the low side. It appears to be doing the job so far but only time will tell.
Do you sell replacement parts other than the Anode for this product such as nylon basket, plastic butterfly screw and cooper level test strips?
How should I clean the top solar area?
Thanks!
So glad to hear it! Please let us know how we can assist you.
Hi Roxanne. Thanks for your call today. I think we figured it all out. To reiterate, just shock your pool with chlorine once, then put in Sun Shock. Then don’t add anything (except maybe a floaty with one or two chlorine tablets). That’s it! Call us if any algae shows up.
I have not found anywhere that parts other than the copper rod can be purchased. Nothing on a replacement basket, coil, wingnut and most of all the test strips.
Also what should the chemistry readings be for a pool with high calcium and phosphate readings before installing the unit.
https://remingtonsolar.com/product/sun-shock-replacement-anode-2/
First I want to tell you that I am very satisfied with the Chlorine-Free Sun Shock Pool Ionizer, it´s work so good!. I wish to make forecasts and acquire the Copper Alloy “Anode”, the nylon basket and the plastic butterfly screw as well as the cooper level test strips . Can you help on that? thanks in advance!
So glad! We know it’s a great product. Please let us know if you have any questions.
I’ve been looking for swimming pool ionizer and I couldn’t find any and then Hop! I found two!.
I know ionizer how it works and that’s why I was looking for it. The other I found is using copper & silver to fight algae and disifecting the water as well.
May I ask you why you choose to use copper only? In anycase I wish to buy it and can you ship to Europe?
Hi Leo. I think you’ll be impressed with ours. Some folks are calling it “magic”. It’s just plain ‘ol chemistry.
Hi, IS IT POSSIBLE TO PURCHASE ONE IN QUEENSLAND AUSTRALIA? CHEERS GEOFF
Hi Geoff. We’d love to sell you one in Australia, but the postage would make it cost prohibitive.
First Name: David
Last Name:Silver
Topic Selected :Technical Help
Message:I just wanted to give some feedback on the Chlorine Free Sun Shock Ionizer. When it works, it works great. However, it has major design flaws and I think you should seriously take a look at making improvements. This item has costed me more $, not saved me because I’ve had to spend extra money on algae killer and more shock. First, you can’t see inside the mesh cage. Instead of it being plastic solid blue, please make future ones clear like a glass. That way you can see if the spring is bent and touching the copper rod. Each time I clean it and take it apart, I’m wasting time and worrying and guessing if its touching or not. Sometimes I get it on right and sometimes the spring touches the rod with me only finding out later due to algae that it wasn’t working for days when I thought it was. Also, please put a light or an indictator on the apparatus if it’s actually “on” or not. Putting it in water in a bowl and seeing if bubbles come out is time consuming and still doesn’t tell you if its working. I love the idea of this item and would tell all my neighbors and friends with pools to get it if you improved on these two flaws. Otherwise, back to the drawing board and using weekly shock.
Thanks
dave
Hi David,
Thank you for your comments. The Sun Shock, as you describe, does work. However, your suggestions are understandable. We have looked how to minimize confusion on how the Sun Shock works, and if the copper and the coil touch…it will not work. The basket, with the groove in the bottom, is designed to seat the coil against it to act as a natural separator. When the basket is on, it is difficult to see that separation.
However, one thing that we have not made clear, is that you can pull on the coil to stretch it out a bit if it’s too short. If it does not naturally seat against the bottom of the basket, then it may not work properly…and if it’s too short, it may be difficult to tell if it’s actually separated.
I would suggest that during cleaning, you stretch out the coil (don’t break it, just pull it out so it stretches about an extra 1/2 inch). You may even hold the base of the coil (near the disk) and adjust it so it is more in line with the copper.
If you can stretch out the coil a bit, it will be much more obvious to feel that the coil is embedded in the basket. Then it should work fine.
The light idea is a nice idea, but it would add considerable expense to the unit. $129 is a very reasonable expectation for consumers if it’s doing what it’s supposed to do.
Thanks for your feedback and comments.
Murray Smith